Some of the most important stitching on a garment is barely visible. Understitching and edge-stitching are the techniques that keep facings from rolling to the outside, hold linings tucked away, and give necklines, plackets and pocket openings their crisp definition. Neither is difficult, but both reward precision, and together they account for much of the difference between a homemade look and a professional one.
This reference explains what each stitch does, when to choose one over the other, and how to execute both cleanly. The patterns Minerva Patterns supplies in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF include the facings and allowances these finishing stitches act on.
What understitching does
Understitching is a line of stitching that joins the seam allowances to the facing or lining, just beside the seam line, on the underside of the garment. Because it pulls the allowances and the facing together, it forces the seam to roll slightly toward the inside, where it stays hidden.
Without it, facings on necklines, armholes and pocket openings tend to creep outward and show. Understitching is the simplest, most reliable cure, and it is invisible from the right side.
How to understitch correctly
- 1.Sew the seam, then grade and clip the allowances so the curve lies flat.
- 2.Press both allowances toward the facing.
- 3.From the right side of the facing, stitch close to the seam, catching both allowances underneath.
- 4.Press the facing to the inside; it will roll naturally just past the seam line.
Pro tip
On tight curves, understitch in short segments, stopping to smooth the fabric so the allowances feed evenly under the needle.
When understitching is not enough
Understitching cannot always reach all the way into a sharp corner or the very ends of a faced opening. In those spots a few hand stitches or careful edge-stitching finish the job. On structured collars and lapels, a related technique called favouring rolls the seam slightly to the underside as you press, supplementing the understitched control.
What edge-stitching adds
Edge-stitching is topstitching placed very close to a finished edge or fold, usually within a couple of millimetres. Unlike understitching, it is meant to be seen, and it serves a dual purpose: it sharpens the edge visually and locks facings, plackets and pleats firmly in place.
It appears on shirt plackets, collar edges, pocket flaps, waistbands and the folded edges of pleats. Done consistently, it reads as a deliberate, tailored detail.
Edge-stitching cleanly and consistently
Consistency is everything; the eye forgives a slightly wider edge-stitch but never a wandering one. An edge-stitching or blind-hem foot with a guide that rides along the fold keeps the distance even.
Sew slowly, watch the fold rather than the needle, and use a slightly longer stitch length than for construction seams, which lies smoother on a visible line.
- Use a guide foot or move the needle position to set a fixed distance from the fold.
- Match thread weight to the fabric; topweight thread reads as decorative, fine thread as subtle.
- Press the edge crisply before stitching so the fold is well defined.
- Test on a scrap to dial in tension and stitch length before working on the garment.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between understitching and edge-stitching?
Understitching is hidden on the underside and holds a seam rolled to the inside. Edge-stitching is visible topstitching close to a finished edge that sharpens and secures it. They solve different problems and are often used together.
Does understitching show on the right side?
No. It is sewn through the facing and allowances only, so it stays invisible from the outside while keeping the facing tucked away.
How close to the edge should edge-stitching be?
Typically within about two millimetres of the fold. The exact distance matters less than keeping it perfectly consistent along the whole edge.
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