Sewing Patch Pockets with Sharp Corners

Start by finishing the top edge of the pocket, since it is the part that shows most when the pocket is open and takes the most stress. A double-folded hem, often 2.5 to 3 cm deep, gives a clean, sturdy top edge. Interface the hem allowance on a garment that will be worn hard, so the opening holds its shape.

Press the seam allowances of the sides and base to the inside next, using a template if you want perfect consistency across a pair of pockets. Accurate pressing before any topstitching is what makes a patch pocket look professional, because the stitched shape can only be as good as the pressed shape underneath it.

1. 1.Press the top hem down first, then press the side and bottom allowances in.
2. 2.At each lower corner, unfold and trim the corner allowance diagonally to reduce bulk.
3. 3.Refold so the allowances meet in a neat mitered corner rather than overlapping.
4. 4.Press firmly, checking the corner forms a clean right angle.
5. 5.Topstitch from the right side, pivoting exactly at the corner with the needle down.

A curved pocket base is prone to a lumpy, faceted edge because the seam allowance has too much fabric to fold around the inside of the curve. Control it by running a line of ease stitching just inside the seam line around the curve, then drawing it up slightly so the allowance cups to the inside smoothly.

A cardboard or heat-resistant template cut to the finished pocket shape lets you press the allowance over a firm edge, producing an identical curve every time. This matters most on jackets and shirts where pockets come in pairs and any difference between left and right is obvious.

A lined patch pocket gives the cleanest finish, with no raw edges inside and a self-turned top. Stitch the lining to the pocket around the top edge, right sides together, then turn the pocket through a gap left in the base or side. The lining is cut slightly smaller so it pulls the seam to the inside, and the turned pocket has crisp edges ready to topstitch on.

Lining suits tailored jackets and coats where the interior is seen or where the pocket fabric is too thick to hem neatly. For casual shirts and trousers, an unlined hemmed pocket is usually enough and lighter.

• Backstitch or reverse securely at both top corners, where the pocket takes the most strain.
• Add a small triangle of topstitching, or a bar tack, at each top corner for extra strength.
• Keep topstitching an even distance from the edge all the way around, using the foot as a guide.
• Consider a second, inner row of topstitching for a bolder, harder-wearing finish on workwear.

Pocket placement is set by the pattern and matters as much as construction, since a pocket a centimeter out of position looks wrong even when perfectly sewn. Transfer the placement marks accurately, and on a pair check that both pockets sit at the same height and distance from center before stitching either down. Minerva Patterns supplies made-to-measure patterns in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF with pocket placement marked, so the pockets land where the design intends on the individual garment.