Hand-Finishing Stitches: Slip, Catch and Fell

The slip stitch, or ladder stitch, joins two folded edges invisibly, which makes it the stitch for closing a lining, securing a hem fold, or shutting the gap left for turning a piece right side out. The needle travels inside the fold of one edge, then crosses to run inside the fold of the other, so the thread is hidden and the join is seamless.

Worked with small, even bites and gentle tension, the slip stitch disappears entirely. It is ideal wherever two clean folded edges must meet without any visible stitching, such as the mitred corner of a hem or the opening of a turned belt.

The catch stitch is a crossed stitch worked from left to right, or right to left with the needle pointing backward, forming a row of small Xs. Its crossed structure gives it stretch, which makes it the stitch for hemming, for holding a facing edge, and for securing an interlining, anywhere a rigid stitch would snap or pucker as the fabric moves.

Because it takes only a tiny bite of the outer fabric, a catch stitch worked as a blind hem is nearly invisible from the right side. The flexibility is the key advantage: the crossed threads act like a spring, giving with the garment rather than fighting it, which is why it holds up so well on hems that flex constantly in wear.

The fell stitch, or hemming stitch, secures a folded edge firmly to the fabric beneath with small, closely spaced slanted stitches. It is used to fell a lining to a seam allowance, to attach bias binding by hand, and to sew down the folded edge of a waistband or facing where a strong, discreet hold is wanted.

Unlike the slip stitch, the fell stitch is meant to grip firmly rather than hang invisibly, so it is chosen where security matters more than total invisibility. Its small, regular slant is a sign of careful hand finishing and is the traditional way couture linings are attached.

• Slip stitch: closing linings, shutting turning gaps, joining two folded edges invisibly.
• Catch stitch: flexible hems, facing edges and interlinings that must move with the fabric.
• Fell stitch: felling linings, hand-applying binding, securing folded edges firmly.
• Prick stitch and pad stitch: a small backstitch for zips and shaping stitches for tailoring, worth knowing alongside these three.

1. 1.Use a length of thread no longer than your forearm to avoid tangling and weakening the thread.
2. 2.Run the thread through beeswax and press it to reduce knotting and add strength on hems.
3. 3.Keep the bites small and evenly spaced, checking the right side often for show-through.
4. 4.Anchor the start and finish with a small backstitch or a couple of tiny stitches rather than a bulky knot.
5. 5.Keep tension relaxed so the stitches hold without puckering the fabric.

Hand finishing is worth the time on garments where quality shows, tailored jackets, lined skirts, eveningwear and anything made to last. A machine-topstitched hem is fine on a casual garment; an invisible hand hem elevates a formal one. The skill is in judging where the extra effort registers and where it does not, so you spend your hand-sewing time where it matters most on the finished piece.