Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 3 buttons, plus one hidden button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3 cm; slit allowance - 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Front bodice — 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances open. On the left back piece, along the vertical edge of the slit, cut off 5 cm. On both back pieces, from the wrong side, interface the slit. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the slit fold line). Press the left piece along the slit fold line; on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
- Stitch the bust and waist darts on the front bodice. Press bust dart depths upwards, waist darts - towards the center.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at the corners, clip at the mark, turn the collar right side out, shape and press.
- Place the front facing and front bodice right sides together and stitch the front edge and lapel up to the mark. Clip allowances at the mark, turn pieces right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edges.
- Attach the undercollar to the main neckline, and the upper collar to the facing neckline, press allowances open, and secure them together. Secure the shoulder seams of the front facings to the shoulder seams of the garment.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on a hidden button.
