Tunic Shirt with Curved Hem and Concealed Placket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 11 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. Pocket top edge allowance – 2.0 cm. Other allowances – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece on fold
  • Upper back - 1 piece on fold
  • Lower back - 1 piece on fold
  • Upper front – 2 pieces
  • Lower front – 2 pieces
  • Left placket – 1 piece
  • Right placket – 1 piece
  • Pocket – 1 piece
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Cuff - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Left placket – 1 piece
  • Right placket – 1 piece
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Collar stand - 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Along the upper edge of the upper back, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Attach the yoke to the upper back, press allowances upwards, overcast and topstitch 0.1 cm from the seam.
3. Along the upper edge of the lower back, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Attach the lower back to the upper back, press allowances and overcast.
4. Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards.
5. Overcast the upper pocket allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Press side and lower pocket allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the front according to markings and topstitch.
6. Along the upper edge of the lower front, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Attach the lower front to the upper front, press allowances and overcast.
7. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Create a horizontal pleat on the garment according to markings, and topstitch a decorative-securing stitch into the seam joining the lower parts.
8. Right front: Attach the right placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Press the placket inwards to the wrong side along the "front edge" and "concealed placket edge" lines. Topstitch the placket into the attachment seam. Fold the inner part of the placket towards the front edge, press. Left front: Attach the left placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the inner edge inwards by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam. Overcast buttonholes on the inner part of the right placket.
9. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
10. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar stand attachment seam line. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
11. Attach the outer collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch a decorative seam 0.1 cm along the collar and collar stand.
12. Overcast sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve seam from the mark upwards, press allowances open. Topstitch a securing stitch along the slit 0.1 cm from the edge. Set sleeves into armholes. Overcast allowances and press towards the sleeve.
13. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side seams. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
14. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
15. Overcast buttonholes and sew buttons on the collar stand and cuffs. Sew buttons on the left front.