Collared Blouse with Puff Sleeves and Shaped Hem

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, 5 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2 cm. Hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Central back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Central front part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 4 pieces
  • Bottom facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Placket - 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the darts on the upper back part. Press depths towards the center. Attach the upper back part to the back, press allowances upwards and overcast. Stitch the center back seams. Overcast allowances and press to the left side.
3. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Along the lower edge of the upper front part, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Overcast the upper edge of the bottom facing. Place the bottom facing on the lower front part right side down and stitch the lower shaped edge. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press.
6. Fold the placket pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and the lower shaped corner, clip allowances, turn to the right side, straighten, and press. Attach the outer placket to the right side of the front. Fold the allowance of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of attaching the outer placket.
7. Fold the collar pieces right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge. Clip allowances at the corners. Turn the collar out, straighten and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end the stitch strictly at the marked collar insertion line. Clip allowances at the curves. Turn the finished collar stand out and press.
8. Stitch the upper collar stand into the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch into the seam of attaching the upper collar stand.
9. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and overcast.
10. Overcast the sleeve hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. Press the back hem allowance to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 1 cm and topstitch.
12. Overcast buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons on the left front.