Collared Zipper Front Dress with Flaps

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; a decorative zipper; fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back waistband - 1 piece
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front waistband - 1 piece
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Flap - 4 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Flap - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces and upper front part, press seam allowances towards the center of the pieces.
3. Stitch center seams of upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances to the left side and overlock. Attach back waistband to upper back part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overlock. Attach lower back part to back waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
4. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim seam allowances, turn flap right side out and press.
5. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
6. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim seam allowances, turn collar right side out and press. Attach collar to neckline.
7. Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings, press seam allowances open. Overlock outer edge. Place front facings with upper front part right sides together and stitch center seams, inserting the decorative zipper, and the back neckline. Turn facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure facing to the main garment at shoulder seams and center back seam.
8. Attach front waistband to upper front part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overlock. Form and secure pleats on the lower front part. Attach lower front part to waistband, inserting flaps, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
9. Overlock left side edges separately on each piece. Stitch left side seam from the notch for the zipper to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
10. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Notch seam allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
11. Overlock the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.