Cropped Double-Breasted Puffed Sleeve Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. FACING – 2 QTY
4. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
5. Flap – 4 QTY
6. Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
7. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
8. SLEEVE – 2 QTY
9. CUFF – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, back neckline FACING, FRONT PANEL, flap, upper COLLAR, CUFF.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, back neckline FACING, flap, FRONT PANEL, upper COLLAR, and CUFF.
2. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch darts on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Trim dart depth on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press darts open on the FRONT PANEL. Overcast and press the dart on the BACK PANEL towards the center back.
3. Fold flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at flap corners and turn out. Overcast the raw edge of the flap. Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch around. Trim seams at corners, shape, turn out, and press the COLLAR.
4. Mark the flap placement. Attach the flap to the FRONT PANEL, turn down, and topstitch.
5. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which indicates the end of COLLAR insertion. Trim seams at the upper corners of the edge. Remove pins. Understitch the edge seam allowance: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL edge.
6. Stitch, overcast, and press the center back seam.
7. Mark and stitch the dart on the FRONT PANEL LINING. Overcast the shoulder edge of the FRONT PANEL LINING. Press darts. Mark and overcast the jacket hem on the BACK PANEL. Press the garment hem to the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Attach the LINING to the outer edge of the FACING and overcast the lower edge of the FRONT PANEL with the LINING.
8. Stitch the side seams, folding the back hem allowance to the right side of the BACK PANEL so that the FRONT PANEL is enclosed in the back hem allowance. Overcast the side seams, turn the back hem allowance to the wrong side of the BACK PANEL, and press.
9. Overcast, stitch, and press open the jacket shoulder seams. Stitch the shoulder edges of the FACING and back neckline FACING. Press seams open and insert the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING, and the lower COLLAR into the neckline of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams. Secure the shoulder edge allowance of the LINING to the jacket shoulder edge.
10. Gather the SLEEVE cap and hem. Press the CUFF in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Unfold the CUFF and stitch the side edge of the CUFF. Press open the CUFF side seam. Fold the CUFF in half lengthwise in the middle and press. Overcast, stitch, and press open the SLEEVE seam. Attach the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Overcast the attachment seam.
11. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Overcast the insertion seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge, along the COLLAR contour, and the jacket hem. Remove basting threads.
12. On the right FRONT PANEL, mark and overcast buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.