Zip-Front Bomber Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense jacket fabrics made of natural or blended fibers; knit fabric with high or medium stretch. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interlining; lining; separating zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical parts).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
• From knit fabric:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Waistband – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From fusible interlining:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

ATTENTION: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
3. Press the collar stand lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the collar stand to the neckline of the back and front.
4. Place front pieces right sides together and align edges, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the separating zipper to the edge of the front.
5. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitching is done from the front side. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams and press.
6. Stitch side seams, press allowances open.
7. Fold the waistband piece lengthwise in half, right side out. Unfold the waistband. Attach the outer part of the waistband to the bottom edge.
8. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper part.
9. Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the bottom seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings, back neckline facing, and the inner edge of the waistband. Turn the garment right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technical opening closed. Topstitch along the waistband attachment seam.
10. Stitch the cuff into a loop. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, wrong side in. Attach the cuffs to the bottom of the sleeve and lining, overcast allowances.

TIP: for the collar stand, waistband, and cuffs, you can use ready-made ribbing. In this case, the pieces should be cut at half size.