Fit & Flare Double-Breasted Dress with Lapels

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 concealed zipper; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm; hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the respective pieces.
2. Stitch the waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press the seam allowances upwards and serge.
3. Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press the seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Stitch the bust darts on the front pieces, press the dart allowances upwards.
5. Serge the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing onto the upper front part and stitch the lapel and front edge from the shoulder seam to the bottom. Clip the seam allowances at the shoulder seam, turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
6. Place the right front part over the left, aligning the centers of the pieces, secure at the bottom edge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press the seam allowances downwards and serge.
7. Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing onto the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front piece between the back and the back neckline facing. Press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
9. Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Serge the hem allowance of the sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the sleeve seam, press and serge the seam allowances. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press and serge the seam allowances.
11. Serge the hem allowance of the garment bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Sew buttons onto the front.