Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin knit fabric with low stretch from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing, 2 buttons, zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for back and front bottom – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. Hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Cut the front between the marked zipper attachment lines. Make diagonal cuts 1.0 – 1.5 cm from the end of the marking. Turn the cut allowances to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Adjust the end of the cut from the wrong side. Place the zipper under the edges of the cut so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper.
- Fold the flap piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Turn the flap to the right side, straighten, press. Serge the open edge. Place the flap on the front according to the marking and stitch (serged edge facing down). Fold the flap down and topstitch it to the front along the attachment line.
- Form and secure a box pleat on the back. Stitch the yoke to the back, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams of back and front neckline facings in pairs, press allowances open. Fold facings right sides together and stitch the outer and front edges. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the piece to the right side, straighten, press. Stitch the outer facing to the neckline, press allowances towards the facing. Fold the allowance of the inner facing inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Fold the sleeve tab right sides together and stitch along the long and one short side. Trim allowances, turn to the right side and press. Serge the buttonhole.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve and stitch, placing the sleeve tab between them, serge allowances. Turn the cuff and tab to the right side, press.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the sleeves.
