Pleated Skirt with Zip Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper; 2 decorative zippers.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back panel – 2 pieces
  • Front panel – 1 piece on fold
  • Pocket facing – 2 pieces
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Back yoke – 4 pieces
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Facing – 4 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back yoke – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke – 1 piece
  • Facing – 4 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Form and secure the pleats on the back skirt panel (depths directed away from the center). Stitch the back yoke to the back panel, press seam allowances upwards. Overlock the center edges of the back panel separately on each piece. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
3. Mark the pocket placement. Fold the pocket facings in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the facings. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening. Stitch the facings to the front panel. The ends of the stitching should finish at the parallel lines of the pocket markings. Check the correctness of the stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening section on the side of the front panel. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the facings through the created opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the facings so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Overlock the pocket facing around the perimeter. Place the pocket facing on the facings from the wrong side and topstitch into the seam of the facing attachment.
4. Form and secure the pleats on the front skirt panel (depths directed away from the center). Stitch the front yoke to the front panel, press seam allowances upwards.
5. Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
6. Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes, press seam allowances open. Overlock the bottom edge. Place the yoke and skirt with right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Topstitch seam allowances to the yoke at a distance of 0.2 cm from the stitching seam. Fold the yoke to the wrong side, press. Fold the center edges and sew to the zipper tape. Topstitch the yoke into the seam of the outer yoke attachment.
7. Overlock the bottom edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and topstitch.