Sleeveless Dress with Placket, Belt, Welt Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: well-draping dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
• From main fabric 1:
  • Center placket - 4 pieces
  • Armhole facing - 4 pieces
  • Belt - 1 piece
  • Bottom trim - 1 piece on fold
  • Welt - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center placket - 2 pieces
  • Armhole facing - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the front and back. Press waist dart allowances towards the center. Press bust dart allowances upwards.
3. Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges together, overcast.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Overcast allowances and press towards the back.
5. Fold the center plackets right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at the curve, turn the piece right side out, and press. Stitch the plackets together from the mark to the bottom. Stitch the placket to the edge and neckline, press allowances towards the main piece and overcast.
6. Stitch the side seam of the armhole facings, press allowances open. Fold the armhole facings right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at the curve, turn the piece right side out, and press. Stitch the facing to the armhole, press allowances towards the main piece and overcast.
7. Overcast the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Insert the zipper.
8. Stitch the bottom facing into a loop. Press the allowance open. Fold the facing lengthwise right side out and press. Stitch the facing to the bottom of the dress. Overcast the allowance and press upwards.
9. Fold the belt piece lengthwise in half and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim corners, turn right side out, and press. Stitch the opening closed.