Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, lace fabric or guipure. Also needed: concealed ZIPPER; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; 6 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Bottom edge allowance – 1.5 cm, slit allowance – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back facing - 4 pieces
- Back center part – 2 pieces
- Back side part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband - 2 pieces
- Lower back center part - 2 pieces
- Lower back side part - 2 pieces
- Lower front side part - 2 pieces
- Lower front center part – 1 piece
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Middle front side part - 2 pieces
- Middle front center part – 1 piece
- Front facing - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- From lace fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back facing - 2 pieces
- Front facing - 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams on the middle back pieces, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the princess seams on the lower back pieces, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Place back facings right sides together, insert the upper back piece between them and stitch. Press allowances, fold facings down. Attach the middle back piece to the lower edge of the outer facing, press allowances towards the facing. Overcast the lower edge of the inner facing and topstitch into the seam of the upper facing attachment.
- Attach the back waistband to the middle back piece, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower back piece to the back waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- On the left lower back center piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both lower back center pieces, fuse interfacing to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the notch for the zipper to the corner of the slit. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper from the upper edge to the notch.
- Stitch the princess seams on the middle front pieces, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the princess seams on the lower front pieces, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Place front facings right sides together, insert the upper front piece between them and stitch. Press allowances, fold facings down. Attach the middle front piece to the lower edge of the outer facing, press allowances towards the facing. Overcast the lower edge of the inner facing and topstitch into the seam of the upper facing attachment.
- Attach the front waistband to the middle front piece, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower front piece to the front waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Attach the undercollar to the neckline, clip allowances and press towards the collar. Fold under the raw edge of the upper collar and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overcast the longitudinal edges of the sleeve. Along the lower edge, stitch with loose stitches and gather. Stitch the sleeve seam from the cap to the mark, press allowances open.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Press allowances, turn cuff right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff. Fold under the raw edge of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the cuffs, overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons.
