Cropped Pants with Gathered Sides

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
2. SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
3. Side pocket – QTY 1
4. Side flap – QTY 2
5. BACK PANEL – QTY 2
6. Fly FACING – QTY 1
7. Waistband – QTY 1
8. Belt loop – QTY 1
• From LINING fabric:
1. Pocket LINING – QTY 2
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: flap, waistband, fly FACING.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the flap, waistband, and fly FACING.
2. Mark and stitch darts on the BACK PANEL.
3. Place the pocket LINING on the FRONT PANEL of the trousers, right sides together, and stitch the pocket opening. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip curves, understitch, and press along the pocket opening 0.5 cm from the edge. Remove temporary basting stitches. Align the FRONT PANEL of the trousers with the marking on the side part of the FRONT PANEL that defines the pocket opening. Secure the side FRONT PANEL to the FRONT PANEL of the trousers along the top and side edges with a 1 cm stitch. Stitch and serge the pocket LINING.
4. Serge: side seams, inseams, center front seam and fly seam, seat seam, bottom hem of the trousers.
5. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch the allowance to the trousers.
6. Stitch the side seams and press open. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the side seams up to the NOTCHES on both sides at an equal distance from the seam.
7. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners of the flap and turn right side out. Topstitch along the outer contour of the flap 0.5 cm from the edge. Serge the top edge of the flap.
8. Serge the outer contour of the pocket and press it according to the pattern. Topstitch the top edge to the pocket, mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL of the trousers, and topstitch it along the contour 0.2 cm from the pocket edge. Place the flap to the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
9. Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the edges, and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it at the fold or forming a 0.1-0.2 cm wide piping on the inside, and press.
10. Stitch and press open the inseams. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the inseams up to the NOTCHES on both sides at an equal distance from the seam.
11. Stitch the center front seam and the crotch seam up to the NOTCH for the ZIPPER. Stitch a second line along the seat seam next to the stitching of the front and crotch seams.
12. Press the integrated ZIPPER FACINGS to the wrong side. Attach the ZIPPER under the edge of the fly allowance (left side) to the edge. Attach the free tape of the ZIPPER to the right FRONT PANEL to the integrated FACING. Fold the fly FACING lengthwise in half and stitch the short bottom edge. Serge the long edge of the fly FACING. Topstitch the integrated ZIPPER FACING to the fly FACING on the left trouser leg. Topstitch the right edge of the opening, catching the FACING.
13. Serge the bottom edge of the waistband. Fold the waistband lengthwise in half and press in half.
14. Cut the belt loops to size, mark the placement of the belt loops on the waistband, and attach them to the bottom edge of the upper waistband. Attach the waistband to the top edge and stitch the corners of the waistband. Trim the corners and turn the waistband right side out. Topstitch the serged edge into the waistband attachment seam. Topstitch the free ends of the belt loops to the top edge of the waistband.
15. Cut and thread the cord into the casing of the side and inseams.