Sailor-Front Shorts

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Front FACING – 4 QTY
• 4. Back FACING – 2 QTY
• 5. Flap FACING – 1 QTY
• 6. Inner front part – 4 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, back FACING, flap FACING, inner front part, GRAIN LINE strip
• GRAIN LINE strip – a strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING 4 cm wide and 2-3 cm longer than the pocket opening.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the back FACING, front FACING, flap FACING, and inner front part.
2. Mark the position of the slit on the FRONT PANEL and reinforce with the GRAIN LINE strip.
3. Mark and stitch darts on the BACK PANEL. Press darts towards the center of the BACK PANEL.
4. Serge: inseam and side SEAM ALLOWANCES, center front and center back SEAM ALLOWANCES.
5. Press the side edge of the flap FACING along the marked line. Serge the curved edge of the flap FACING.
6. Fold the inner front part pieces. Stitch the center front and curved edges of the inner front part. Turn right side out and press the inner part.
7. Place the pressed flap FACING to the marked slit line on the FRONT PANEL and stitch. Place the inner part to the slit line on the other side and stitch. Check the correctness of stitching from the wrong side: stitches should be parallel, end at the same level; the distance between the stitches should be equal to the width of the welt, formed by the flap FACING when finished. Cut the FRONT PANEL in the middle along the stitches. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the stitch, make diagonal cuts. Through the resulting opening, turn the inner front part and the flap FACING to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the ends of the slit from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Serge the bottom edge of the flap FACING and the inner front part.
8. Stitch and press open the inseam and side seams of the shorts. Stitch the center front seam and the seat seam. Lay a second stitch next to the seat seam.
9. Stitch the side edges of the front and back FACINGS. Press open the side edges of the FACINGS.
10. Finish the upper edge of the FRONT PANEL with the flap FACING. Lay a topstitch along the upper and curved contours of the flap FACING at a distance of 0.2 cm from the edge.
11. Serge the outer edge of the lower FACINGS. Stitch the FACINGS to the upper edge of the inner front part and the upper edge of the BACK PANEL, aligning the side seams. Stitch the corners of the FACINGS. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn right side out and press. Topstitch the serged edge of the FACING into the stitching seam.
12. Mark and serge buttonholes on the FRONT PANEL. Mark and sew buttons on the inner front part.
13. Serge the bottom edge of the shorts. Fold and press the hem. Topstitch the hem to the shorts. Mark and serge buttonholes on the right side of the front FACING. Mark and sew buttons on the left side of the front panel FACING.