Skirt With Fly, Patch And Welt Pockets

Fabric & Materials

FUSIBLE INTERFACING: waistband; fly FACING, GRAIN LINE, welt. The GRAIN LINE is a 4 cm wide strip of FUSIBLE INTERFACING, 2-3 cm longer than the pocket opening.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Front panel insert – 2 QTY
• 2. Patch pocket – 2 QTY
• 3. Flap – 4 QTY
• 4. Side pocket part – 4 QTY
• 5. Front SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 6. Back SKIRT HALF – 2 QTY
• 7. Small pocket LINING – 2 QTY
• 8. Large pocket LINING – 2 QTY
• 9. Welt – 2 QTY
• 10. Fly FACING – 1 QTY
• 11. Waistband – 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the waistband and fly FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Mark and stitch the darts on the back SKIRT HALF. Press the darts towards the center of the back SKIRT HALF.
3. Attach the insert to the front SKIRT HALF. Overlock the SEAM ALLOWANCES and topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
4. Mark the position of the welt. Fold the welt right sides together in half and press. Stitch the corners of the welt, trim excess fabric at the corners, and turn the welt right side out. Press the finished welt.
5. Reinforce the position of the welt pocket on the front SKIRT HALF with GRAIN LINE FUSIBLE INTERFACING. On the welt, mark the attachment line to the skirt, measuring the width. Place the welt on the right side of one pocket LINING piece, right side up, with the finished edge down, aligning the raw edges and extending the LINING edges beyond the welt by an equal amount. Place the welt on the front SKIRT HALF and align the marked lines. Stitch the welt to the skirt. The welt is positioned between the front SKIRT HALF and the pocket LINING. Fold the welt and LINING attachment seam towards the welt. Place the second pocket LINING piece on the right side of the front SKIRT HALF, right side down, butt-to-butt with the welt attachment seam. Baste and stitch 0.8-1 cm from the welt attachment seam. Check the accuracy of the welt and pocket LINING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Remove temporary basting threads. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and pocket LINING through the opening to the wrong side, straightening the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overlock the pocket LINING. Baste the welt to the FRONT PANEL and press. Topstitch the ends of the welt. Remove temporary basting threads.
6. Overlock the side raw edges of the front and back SKIRT HALVES. Stitch and press open the side seams.
7. Mark the position of the patch pocket. Overlock and press the outer raw edge of the side pocket part. Attach the side part to the pocket and overlock the attachment seam. Overlock the top and bottom raw edges of the pocket. Press the top and bottom raw edges to the wrong side. Topstitch the top raw edge of the pocket 1.5 cm from the edge. Baste the patch pocket and topstitch the side part 0.2 cm from the edge, stopping 2-2.5 cm from the end. Topstitch the bottom raw edge of the pocket 0.2 cm from the edge and place bar tacks 2-2.5 cm in the bottom corners of the pocket.
8. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the flap corners and turn them right side out. Press the finished flap. Overlock the top raw edge of the flap. Attach the flap to the skirt, fold back, and topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
9. Stitch the center back raw edge of the back SKIRT HALF. Overlock the seam and press it open, topstitch 0.5 cm from the center seam.
10. Overlock the center front raw edge of the front SKIRT HALF. Stitch the center front raw edge of the front SKIRT HALF from the NOTCH for the slit to the NOTCH for the ZIPPER. Press the center seam and topstitch 0.5 cm from the center seam.
11. Press the integrated ZIPPER FACINGS to the wrong side. Attach the ZIPPER under the edge of the ZIPPER allowance (left side) to the edge. Attach the free ZIPPER tape to the right half to the integrated FACING. Fold the fly FACING in half lengthwise and stitch the short bottom raw edge. Topstitch the integrated ZIPPER FACING to the fly FACING on the left skirt half. Topstitch the right edge of the slit, catching the FACING.
12. Punch eyelets on the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Overlock the bottom raw edge of the waistband. Attach the waistband to the skirt. Stitch the ends of the waistband. Trim excess fabric and turn the ends right side out. Topstitch the overlocked raw edge into the waistband attachment seam.
13. Overlock the bottom raw edge of the skirt. Fold up and press the hem allowance. Topstitch the hem allowance to the skirt. Thread the cord through the waistband. Overlock a buttonhole on the right side of the waistband, and sew a button on the left side.