Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 1 button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

NOTE: the center back and center front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Apply an additional fusible stay tape along the back neckline. Interface the allowances of the garment hem and sleeve hem.
2. Stitch the dart on the center back. Press the dart depth towards the center, topstitch at 0.1 cm from the seam. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
3. Stitch the dart from the shoulder seam on the center front. Press the dart depth towards the center, topstitch at 0.1 cm from the seam. Fold the center front piece wrong sides together and stitch the horizontal darts, press the depths downwards. Stitch and press open the front princess seam.
4. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
5. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Place the front facings with the garment and stitch the front edges and neckline in one seam. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves, turn the garment right side out, press. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Press up the garment hem.
6. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
7. Set in the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
8. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing.
9. Attach the lining to the garment hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
10. On the right front, make a buttonhole, on the left front, sew on a button.