Asymmetrical Hem Fitted Blazer

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; 3 buttons; shoulder pads. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2 cm. Sleeve hem allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side left back part – 1 piece
  • Side right back part – 1 piece
  • Center left front part – 1 piece
  • Center right front part – 1 piece
  • Side left front part – 1 piece
  • Side right front part – 1 piece
  • Lower collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket frame – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 4 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side left back part – 1 piece
  • Side right back part – 1 piece
  • Center left front part – 1 piece
  • Center right front part – 1 piece
  • Side left front part – 1 piece
  • Side right front part – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center left front part – 1 piece
  • Center right front part – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Pocket frame – 2 pieces

Note: lining pieces for the front and back are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the width of the facing and the back neckline facing. ATTENTION: Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing. On the front pieces, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing).
2. Stitch the center back seam, overcast and press open the allowances. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
3. Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
4. Fold the flap pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim allowances, clip corners, turn right side out, and press. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold the pocket frame in half, wrong side in, and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the pocket frame and flap for stitching parallel to the fold. Stitch the large pocket bag to the flap. Stitch the frame and flap to the front piece. Cut the front piece along the line marked on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frame and flap through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the small pocket bag into the seam of the frame attachment. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overcast allowances.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
6. Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the front facings.
8. Place the facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment.
9. Stitch the lower collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facings. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowance towards the back. Set in sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Sew on shoulder pads.
11. Press up the sleeve hem and jacket hem to the wrong side.
12. Stitch the lining seams, leaving an opening in the left sleeve. Stitch the lining to the facings and neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve.
13. Turn the jacket right side out through the technical opening. Close the opening.
14. Work buttonholes and sew on buttons.