Structured Zip-Front Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a structured, collarless jacket featuring a full zip-front and elegant design details.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile piece designed for various occasions, including:
- Business & Professional Settings: Its tailored silhouette and clean lines make it perfect for office wear or client meetings.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Easily dressed down with jeans or up with a skirt for social events.
- Layering & Travel: a chic and comfortable outer layer for changing temperatures or travel.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted and tailored silhouette designed to flatter, ending at the hip.
Neckline: Chic stand collar neckline, offering a clean and modern frame.
Closure: Full-length separating front zipper provides a contemporary and functional closure.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves for a refined fit.
Pockets: Two functional front welt pockets, each secured with a zipper closure.
Shoulder Yokes: Distinctive shoulder yokes at both front and back contribute to the structured design.
Front & Back Panels: Features multiple front and back panels with elegant princess seams for a highly tailored fit and contour.
Length: Finishes at the hip, creating a versatile and flattering proportion.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with zipper insertions, precise panel construction, and lining techniques.
Fabric Recommendations
For the best results, choose medium-weight fabrics with good structure and drape:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
- Complementary or contrast fabric (for yoke, if desired)
Additional Supplies
- Separating zipper (for front closure)
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Piping trim
- Two small zippers (for pockets)
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back piece – 2 pieces
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Side front piece 1 – 2 pieces
- Side front piece 2 – 2 pieces
- Center front piece – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From main fabric1:
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back piece – 2 pieces
- Center front piece – 2 pieces
- Side back piece – 2 pieces
- Side front piece 1 – 2 pieces
- Side front piece 2 – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve piece – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front piece – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom.
- Stitch the back princess seams, inserting piping, press seams open. Stitch the center back seam, press seams open. Attach back yokes to the back. Press seams open.
- Attach side front piece 1 to side front piece 2, inserting piping. Clip and press seams open. Attach front placket to the center front piece. Press seams open. Stitch the front princess seams, inserting piping, press seams open. Attach front yoke to the front. Press seams open.
- Mark the pocket placement on the front. Fold pocket frames in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guide line on the pocket frame for attaching it parallel to the fold. Attach frames to the front. Start stitching strictly at the marked line of the front princess seam. Cut the front along the line marked on the pattern. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the frames through the resulting opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the distance between them is 5 mm (width of zipper teeth). Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the zipper under the frame and attach the tape to the frames. Attach the large pocket bag to the seam of the upper frame attachment. Attach the small pocket bag to the seam of the lower frame attachment. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline. Clip allowances at curves, press open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline. Press allowances open.
- Place the front facings with the collar and the front piece right sides together and stitch the front edge and collar stands, inserting the zipper. Trim allowances at corners, clip at curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, press. Secure the collar stand attachment allowances together.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. On the back, stitch the dart or create a pleat. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
