Structured Stand Collar Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's jacket pattern featuring a chic stand collar, artfully shaped vertical seams, and practical zip-front pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is designed for smart styling, making it an ideal choice for:
- Business Casual: Its polished design and structured silhouette make it perfect for office environments or professional meetings.
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevate everyday ensembles with this stylish jacket for lunches, shopping, or relaxed social gatherings.
- Layering for Transitional Seasons: Provides a perfect lightweight layer over blouses or dresses during spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, hip-length jacket shaped with vertical seams for a flattering profile.
Neckline & Collar: Features a stylish stand collar that frames the neckline, designed to be worn open.
Closure: The jacket is designed with an open front, allowing for effortless layering.
Sleeves: Two-piece long sleeves are finished with wide, folded cuffs, adding a refined touch.
Pockets: Functional vertical welt pockets on the front are accented with exposed decorative zippers.
Front Design: Detailed with prominent vertical princess seams on the front panels for tailored shaping.
Back Design: The back features clean lines with vertical princess seams, mirroring the front for consistent shaping.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precise sewing for vertical seams, careful collar insertion, working with lining, and installing decorative zippers.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics that offer good structure and drape:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- 2 decorative zippers
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, minus the width of the back neckline facing.
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Topstitch the zipper onto the front princess seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar stand to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Place the front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the front edges, the neckline edge (the collar stand is placed between the facing and the main garment), and the lower corner of the front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the pieces right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and the front neckline section up to the collar stand at 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the upper. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the facings. Turn the garment right side out, smooth out the seams.
- Mark and press up the garment hem. Finish the garment hem and the inner side of the cuff with the lining. Stitch the technical opening closed. Turn the cuff onto the sleeve.
