Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 5 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side upper front – 2 pieces
  • Side lower front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper collar - 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the lapel fold line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
2. Form pleats on the back along the marked lines (depth directed outwards towards the side seam) and topstitch onto the main piece.
3. Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
4. Attach the side lower front to the front, press seam allowances, serge. Form and secure the pleat (depth directed towards the center).
5. Attach the upper side front to the front, clipping into the corner. Press seam allowances towards the center, serge. Form pleats on the front (depths directed outwards towards the side seams), topstitch onto the main piece.
6. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
7. Fold the upper collar with the under collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge up to the mark. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
8. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Serge the outer edge.
9. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Turn front facings right side out, shape seams.
10. Attach the under collar to the garment neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline facing of the back and front facing. Press open collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
11. Serge sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and serge. Along the lower sleeve edge, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
12. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch side seams. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
13. Serge the garment hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
14. On the right front, serge buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Serge buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.