Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, companion fabric. Also needed: fusible interlining, concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2.0 cm. Center edge of the fly-away part of the front – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Attention! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part – 2 pieces
- Upper side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper center front part – 2 pieces
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Fly-away front part – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Collar - 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the pieces. On the front, along the lapel fold line, apply a grainline stay tape 1 cm wide (from fusible).
- Stitch the waist darts on the back pieces, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower parts, overlock and press the seam allowances downwards. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock and press the seam allowance to the left side.
- Stitch the front princess seams. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the darts on the lower front part. Press the dart intakes towards the center.
- Overlock the center and lower edges of the fly-away part, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch. Place the fly-away part onto the lower front part and secure along the upper and side edges.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Overlock and press the seam allowances towards the back.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch along the outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the front facing. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the lapel corner. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams at the corners. Turn the facings right side out, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the lower collar into the dress neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Place the right front over the left front, align along the center line and secure along the lower edge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Overlock and press the seam allowance downwards.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Notch the allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the right side seam. Overlock and press the seam allowance towards the back. Overlock the left side seams separately. Stitch from the armhole to the zipper mark and from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press open the seam allowances. Insert the zipper.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the garment, fold to the wrong side and topstitch.
