Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting or complementary colors. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem – 2.0 cm. Other allowances – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE RIGHT SIDE.
- From main fabric:
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper right front part – 1 piece
- Upper left front part – 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and serge.
- Serge the center back seams separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Attach the right front insert to the right side front part, press allowances towards the center, serge. Attach the center front part to the right insert, press allowances towards the center, serge. Attach the left front insert to the center part, press allowances towards the center, serge. On the upper right front part, create and secure the pleat. Stitch the upper and lower right front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- On the upper left front part, create and secure the pleat. Stitch the upper left and lower left side front parts, press allowances upwards and serge. Stitch the left and right front parts, press allowances towards the center, serge.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place facings with right sides together with the garment and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out. Secure the facing to the garment at the shoulder seams, front seam, and zipper tape.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
