Sheath Dress Yoke Neckline Side Peplums

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: concealed zipper, fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams – 1.0 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm; lower allowances of peplums – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
  • Neckline facing – 4 pieces
  • Decollete facing – 2 pieces
  • Upper peplum – 2 pieces
  • Lower peplum – 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Decollete facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Overlock the lower edge of the inner facing. Place the decollete facings right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Clip the allowances, turn right side out, and press. Attach the outer facing to the upper front part, press the allowance towards the facing. Topstitch the allowance of the inner facing into the seam of the outer facing.
3. Stitch the darts on the upper back part. Press the dart folds towards the center. Attach the front sleeve to the upper back part along the shoulder edge. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back.
4. Stitch the darts on the upper front part. Trim the dart folds with an overlocker and press them towards the center.
5. Fold the neckline facings in pairs, right sides together, and stitch the neckline edge, inserting the upper front part. Clip the allowances, turn the facings out, and press.
6. Attach the neckline facing to the front sleeve and back. Clip the allowance, overlock, and press away from the neckline.
7. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
8. Stitch the side edges of the upper parts. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back.
9. Overlock the lower edges of the peplums, fold inwards, and topstitch. Place the upper peplum on the lower one and secure along the upper and side edges.
10. Stitch the side edges of the lower parts. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back.
11. On the lower front and back parts, slash the darts, stopping 3-4 cm from the apex. Stitch the darts, inserting the peplums. Overlock the dart edges, tapering off gradually.
12. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the dress. Press the allowance upwards and overlock.
13. Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the slit mark. Press the allowances open. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge. Insert the zipper.
14. Overlock the hem allowance, press inwards, and topstitch.