Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: low-stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers in contrasting or analogous colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Front side panel – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Casing – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper front piece, press depths upwards.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams of the upper back and front pieces, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch neckline facings of back and front in pairs, press allowances open. Fold facings right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn piece right side out, straighten, press. Attach facing to neckline, press allowances towards the main garment and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Fuse interfacing to the pocket opening on the lower front piece. Place pocket bag right sides together with the lower front piece and stitch the pocket opening. Turn pocket bag to the wrong side, press. Place the lower front piece over the front side panel and stitch the edges of the pocket bags, serge allowances. Secure pieces at the side and upper edges.
- Stitch side seams of the lower back and front pieces, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge short sides of the casing, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the upper edge of the casing to the wrong side. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the garment, inserting the lower edge of the casing into the seam, press allowances upwards and serge. Topstitch the casing to the main garment along the upper fold.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short sides. Turn piece right side out, straighten, press. Attach cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, aligning short sides at the mark. Press allowances towards the sleeve, serge and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Cut a strip for the tie from main fabric 1, 4 cm wide and a length equal to double the waist circumference. Press the tie lengthwise in half right side out. Unfold the piece, fold raw edges inwards to the center line, press again. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Thread the tie through the casing.
