Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: knit fabric with high or medium stretch from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing; 6 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve – 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Placket - 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Collar stand — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Placket - 1 piece
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Fold the plackets right sides together and stitch the cutout. Clip the corner allowance, turn right side out, and press.
- Place the placket on the front piece, wrong side to right side, and stitch. Clip the front piece at the corners. Turn the placket to the wrong side and smooth. Serge and press the allowances.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the outer and inner collar stands right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attachment. Clip allowances at curves. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and serge. Place the tab wrong side down on the wrong side of the sleeve and topstitch according to markings.
- Fold the tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the short and long sides. Trim allowances, turn the tab right side out, and press. Make buttonholes on the tabs.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Sew buttons to the placket and sleeve.
