Fitted Paneled Dress with Back Zipper

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part - 1 piece
  • Lower right front part – 1 piece
  • Lower left front part - 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce neckline facings with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on back and front pieces, press waist dart depths towards the center, bust darts upwards.
3. Stitch upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press open the center seam allowances, pressing the slit. Insert the zipper.
5. Stitch the upper and lower right front parts up to the mark, clip allowances at the mark, press upwards and overcast. Stitch the upper and lower left front parts, simultaneously stitching the lower right and left parts. Press allowances upwards and overcast.
6. Stitch side and shoulder edges, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Stitch shoulder edges of neckline facings, press allowances open, overcast outer edge. Place dress and facing right sides together and stitch neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to wrong side and press. Secure facing to shoulder seams and zipper tape.
8. Cut (if not ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and length equal to armhole length + 5cm. Fold bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place binding with armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold binding to wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
9. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.