Knit fabrics behave nothing like wovens, and treating them the same way is the source of most knit-sewing frustration: skipped stitches, popped seams, wavy edges and tunnelling. A knit stretches, so its seams must stretch too, and its cut edges resist fraying but love to curl. Once you adjust your needle, stitch and handling to suit the structure, knits become fast and forgiving to sew.
This reference covers the equipment and settings that make knit sewing clean and reliable. Minerva Patterns supplies knit-garment patterns in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF, drafted with the negative ease that lets a knit garment skim the body, so executing them well depends on knit-appropriate technique.
Use the right needle
The single most common cause of skipped stitches on knits is the wrong needle. A ballpoint or stretch needle has a rounded tip that slips between the loops of the knit rather than piercing and cutting the yarns, which prevents both skipped stitches and small holes that can ladder.
Stretch needles are designed specifically for highly elastic knits and fabrics with elastane, where a standard ballpoint may still skip. Match needle size to fabric weight, and change the needle often, since a slightly blunt tip causes skips on knits long before it would on wovens.
Choose a stitch that stretches
A straight lockstitch has no give, so it snaps when a knit seam is stretched. Knit seams need a stitch that stretches with the fabric.
Several options work, depending on your machine and the seam.
- Narrow zigzag: a simple, effective stretch seam on any machine.
- Lightning or stretch stitch: a built-in stitch that flexes with the fabric.
- Overlock or serger seam: trims, finishes and stretches in one pass, the production standard.
- Coverstitch or twin needle: for hems and necklines that must stretch and lie flat.
Stabilise where it matters
Knits stretch in every direction, which is a problem at seams that must not give: shoulders, necklines, button bands and any seam that bears the garment's weight. Stabilising these areas keeps them from growing and sagging in wear.
A strip of clear elastic, fusible stay tape, or a length of twill tape stitched into the shoulder seams holds them to the pattern length. Necklines and the openings of pockets benefit from the same treatment.
Pro tip
Cut stabiliser tape to the pattern length, not the stretched fabric length, so it pulls the seam back to its intended dimension.
Tame curling and wavy seams
Single-knit jersey curls at the cut edge, which makes handling awkward. A walking foot, or the dual feed built into some machines, feeds both layers evenly so the seam does not stretch out and wave as it sews.
Avoid pulling the fabric through the machine; let the feed dogs do the work. Lengthening the stitch slightly and reducing presser-foot pressure also help prevent the stretched, rippling seams knits are prone to.
Hems and necklines
Hems and necklines must stretch over the body and recover. A coverstitch gives the professional twin-line finish of ready-to-wear, with stretchy loops underneath; a twin needle on a standard machine approximates it and retains some give.
Necklines are often finished with a separate band of the same knit, cut shorter than the opening so it pulls the neckline snug against the body. Stabilising the seam where the band joins keeps it from stretching out over time.
Test before you commit
Knits vary enormously, from stable double knits to slinky four-way stretch jerseys, and each behaves differently under the needle. Always sew a test seam on a scrap of the actual fabric to dial in needle, stitch, tension and presser-foot pressure.
Five minutes of testing prevents the frustration of unpicking a wavy or skipped seam from the finished garment, where the needle holes may already show.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my machine skip stitches on knit fabric?
Almost always the needle. Use a fresh ballpoint or stretch needle, which slips between the loops instead of cutting them. A blunt or wrong-type needle is the usual cause of skipped stitches on knits.
Do I need an overlocker to sew knits?
No. An overlocker is fast and gives a professional finish, but a narrow zigzag or built-in stretch stitch on a standard machine, plus a twin needle for hems, sews knits perfectly well.
How do I stop knit shoulder seams from stretching out?
Stabilise them with clear elastic, fusible stay tape or twill tape cut to the pattern length and stitched into the seam. This holds the shoulders to size so they do not grow and sag.
Minerva Patterns
Made-to-measure digital patterns, ready to cut
Every pattern is graded to your measurements and delivered as DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF files for cutting, plotting and 3D workflows.
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