The collar and lapel sit at the most scrutinised part of a garment, framing the face and setting the tone for everything below. They are also among the most demanding areas to construct, because they must roll, stand and lie flat in three dimensions at once. A collar that gapes from the neck or points that curl ruin an otherwise fine garment, while a crisp, well-rolled collar reads instantly as quality.
This reference covers the construction principles behind sharp collars and lapels. Minerva Patterns drafts these components with the subtle differences in size and shape they require, supplied in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF, so understanding the techniques lets you realise the draft fully.
Upper and under-collar are not the same
A common error is treating the upper and under-collar as identical pieces. The upper collar must be very slightly larger, because it travels over the outside of the roll and needs the extra length to cover the curve without straining. The under-collar sits on the inside of the roll, where less fabric is needed.
This difference, built into the pattern, is what lets the collar roll smoothly with the seam hidden underneath. Cutting both pieces the same size produces a collar that will not roll cleanly or that shows its seam from above.
Interfacing and shaping the under-collar
The under-collar carries the structure. Interfacing, fused or sewn, gives it the body to hold a shape, and on tailored garments the under-collar is often cut on the bias so it curves around the neck without breaking. Pad-stitching the canvas to the under-collar on a fine jacket curves it permanently into the roll.
Shaping the under-collar with steam over a ham before assembly helps it take the neck's curve, so it hugs rather than stands away.
Crisp points and corners
Collar points and lapel corners must be sharp, not lumpy. After stitching the point, trim the seam allowance close and grade the layers so they taper, then trim across the very tip to reduce bulk before turning.
Turn the point with a point turner rather than scissors, which can poke through. A clean, well-graded point turns out crisp; a point left full of allowance turns out blunt and rounded.
Pro tip
Grade the point allowances in layers so each is a slightly different length; this staggers the bulk and lets the point lie perfectly flat.
The roll line
The roll line is where the collar or lapel folds back, and controlling it is the secret to a collar that sits properly. On tailored garments, a length of tape stitched along the roll line, drawn up very slightly, pulls the roll in so the lapel hugs the chest and the collar follows the neck.
The roll line should be pressed into shape rather than stitched flat. A collar pressed and shaped along its true roll line stands and falls exactly as intended; one ignored tends to flip or gape.
Favouring the seam
Favouring means rolling the seam line slightly to the underside as you press, so the seam is invisible from the most-seen surface. On a collar, the seam is favoured to the under-collar; on a lapel, to the underside of the roll above the break and to the facing side below it.
Combined with understitching where it can reach, favouring keeps the upper collar and lapel facing rolling smoothly to the inside with no seam line peeking over the edge. It is a pressing technique as much as a sewing one.
Assembling for a clean finish
- 1.Interface and shape the under-collar, cutting on the bias for tailored work.
- 2.Stitch the collar, grade and trim the points, and turn crisply.
- 3.Press, favouring the seam to the under-collar.
- 4.Attach the collar to the neckline, matching notches precisely.
- 5.Press and shape the roll line over a ham, taping it on tailored garments.
Frequently asked questions
Why should the upper collar be larger than the under-collar?
The upper collar travels over the outside of the roll and needs the extra length to cover the curve without straining or pulling the seam into view. Cutting both the same size stops the collar rolling cleanly.
How do I get sharp collar points?
Grade the seam allowances in layers, trim across the tip to remove bulk, and turn with a point turner rather than scissors. Well-graded points turn out crisp; full ones turn out blunt.
What does favouring the seam mean?
It means rolling the seam slightly to the underside as you press so it is hidden from the most-seen surface. On collars the seam is favoured to the under-collar, keeping the visible side clean.
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