Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Upper sleeve part - 2 pieces
  • Middle sleeve part_1 - 2 pieces
  • Middle sleeve part_2 - 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part - 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the front piece, press the fullness upwards.
3. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
4. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Clip the allowances, turn the collar stand right side out, straighten, and press. Serge the lower edge of the inner collar stand.
5. Stitch the outer collar stand into the neckline, press allowances towards the collar stand.
6. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper, starting from the upper edge of the collar stand, folding back the inner collar stand. Fold the short allowances of the inner collar stand inwards and stitch to the zipper tape. Topstitch the inner collar stand into the seam of the outer collar stand attachment.
7. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Stitch the seam of the upper sleeve part, press allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch the seam of the middle sleeve part_1, press allowances towards the back and serge. Attach the middle sleeve part_1 to the upper part, press allowances, serge. Along the lower edge of the middle sleeve part_1, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
9. Stitch the seam of the middle sleeve part_2, press allowances towards the back and serge. Attach the middle sleeve part_2 to the middle sleeve part_1, press allowances, serge. Along the lower edge of the middle sleeve part_2, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
10. Stitch the seam of the lower sleeve part, press allowances towards the back and serge. Attach the lower sleeve part to the middle sleeve part_2, press allowances, serge. Along the lower edge of the lower sleeve part, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
11. Stitch the cuff into a ring, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right side out and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances and serge.
12. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
13. Form pleats on the sleeve by folding the sleeve inwards along the marked lines. Secure from the wrong side along the sleeve seam and with a few blind stitches in the middle of the sleeve.
14. Serge the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch.