A buttonhole is a tiny piece of engineering that must open and close repeatedly, bear the strain of the button, and look immaculate doing it. Few details reveal a maker's care more clearly, because a buttonhole sits on the most visible part of a garment and cannot hide a mistake. Choosing the right type, sizing it correctly and placing it precisely are the marks of skilled construction.
This reference compares the three principal buttonhole types and the placement rules that govern them all. The patterns Minerva Patterns supplies in DXF AAMA, PLT and PDF mark button and buttonhole positions, so accurate execution begins with the draft.
Machine buttonholes: reliable and fast
The machine buttonhole, stitched in a dense satin zigzag around a slit, is the everyday standard for shirts, blouses and casual wear. Modern machines produce them automatically and consistently, often sized to the button placed in a sensor foot.
For durability, especially on garments that are buttoned often, a corded buttonhole reinforces the lips by stitching over a fine cord, giving the opening firmness and resistance to stretching. Always stabilise the buttonhole area with interfacing first.
Bound buttonholes: the tailored choice
A bound buttonhole frames the opening with two lips of fabric, like a miniature welt pocket, and is the hallmark of fine tailoring on jackets and coats. It is constructed before the facing goes on, with the facing finished separately behind the opening.
It is more demanding than a machine buttonhole and is reserved for garments where the extra refinement is warranted. The precision required, square corners and even lips, is the same discipline as a welt pocket, scaled down.
Pro tip
Make a test bound buttonhole on a scrap of your actual fabric and interfacing before committing to the garment; the small scale leaves no margin for error.
Keyhole buttonholes: for shanked buttons
A keyhole buttonhole has a small rounded eye at one end, which accommodates the shank of a thick or domed button and prevents it from distorting the opening. It is the traditional choice for tailored jackets, coats and trousers where heavier buttons are used.
The rounded eye lets the shank sit without straining the buttonhole, so the button hangs correctly and the opening keeps its shape. It is the standard buttonhole on quality menswear tailoring.
Sizing the buttonhole
A buttonhole must clear the button but not so loosely that it gapes. The standard rule is that the buttonhole length equals the button's diameter plus its thickness, which lets a domed or thick button pass through cleanly while staying snug.
Always test the size with the actual button on a scrap before cutting any buttonhole in the garment. A buttonhole that is even slightly too small will not fasten, and one too large will let the button slip undone.
Placement and orientation
Placement is as important as the buttonhole itself. Horizontal buttonholes resist strain best and are used where the closure pulls, such as on cuffs, waistbands and tailored fronts, because the button settles at the end of the hole and stays put. Vertical buttonholes suit plackets and bands where strain is minimal.
Spacing must be even, and a horizontal buttonhole should extend slightly past the centre-front line toward the edge so the button rests on the centre-front when fastened.
- Horizontal: high-strain closures, jacket fronts, cuffs, waistbands.
- Vertical: shirt plackets and narrow bands with little strain.
- Place the button to sit at the centre-front or centre-back line.
- Keep spacing even and check there is no gap at the bust or waist.
Frequently asked questions
How long should a buttonhole be?
As a rule, the button's diameter plus its thickness, so a domed or thick button passes through cleanly while the opening stays snug. Always test the size with the actual button on a scrap first.
When should buttonholes be horizontal versus vertical?
Horizontal buttonholes resist strain and suit jacket fronts, cuffs and waistbands. Vertical buttonholes suit shirt plackets and narrow bands where there is little pull on the closure.
Why choose a keyhole buttonhole?
The rounded eye accommodates the shank of a thick or domed button so it does not distort the opening. It is the traditional choice for tailored jackets, coats and trousers with heavier buttons.
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