Tailored Notched Collar Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
2. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL side part – 2 QTY
4. Flap – 4 QTY
5. Front FACING – 2 QTY
6. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
7. BACK PANEL side part – 2 QTY
8. BACK PANEL center part – 2 QTY
9. FRONT PANEL center part – 2 QTY
10. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
11. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL center part – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL side part - 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL center part – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL side part – 2 QTY
5. Upper SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
6. Lower SLEEVE part – 2 QTY
7. Small pocket LINING – 2 QTY
8. Large pocket LINING – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front FACING, GRAIN LINE strip, FRONT PANEL center part, SLEEVE and jacket hem, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, upper COLLAR, flap.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, FRONT PANEL center part, SLEEVE hem, jacket hem, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, upper COLLAR, and flap.
2. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Stitch FRONT PANEL darts and trim dart depth. Press open the bust dart.
3. Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim flap corner SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn out. Straighten seams and press.
4. Secure the pocket opening with a GRAIN LINE strip or baste. Stitch and press open the relief seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
5. Cut the side welt pocket FACINGS, mark the pocket placement. Fold pocket FACINGS in half wrong sides together and press. Mark an auxiliary line on the pocket FACING parallel to the FACING fold for attachment. Mark an auxiliary line on the flap for attachment parallel to the upper edge of the flap, measuring the flap width along its entire length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening for attaching the flap and pocket FACINGS. Attach the FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the correctness of FACING attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the FACINGS so that the pressed folds of the FACINGS meet flush. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Attach the pocket LINING to the flap. Insert the flap into the pocket and attach it to the upper pocket FACING. Attach the lower pocket LINING into the seam of the lower FACING attachment, trim and stitch the pocket LINING.
6. Place the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch around. Trim seams at the corners, turn out, straighten and press the COLLAR.
7. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Attach the lower edges of the front FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the front FACING seam allowance: in the fastener area – to the front FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL front edge. Place the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
8. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and front FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the BACK PANEL FACING and front FACING.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
11. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
12. On the cut LINING pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
13. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGS and the BACK PANEL neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
14. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
15. On the right FRONT PANEL, make a buttonhole, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on a button.