Stand-Collar Utility Jacket

Fabric & Materials

From main fabric: From LINING fabric: FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, flap, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, center FRONT PANEL, SIDE PANEL, upper COLLAR.

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Stand – 2 QTY
• 6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 8. Front FACING – 2 QTY
• 9. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
• 10. FRONT PANEL Yoke – 2 QTY
• 11. Flap 1 – 2 QTY
• 12. Side flap – 1 QTY
• 13. Patch pocket 1 – 1 QTY
• 14. Flap 2 – 8 QTY
• 15. Side pocket 2 – 4 QTY
• 16. Patch pocket 2 – 4 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 2. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
• 3. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 4. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
• 5. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• 6. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, flap, back neckline FACING, center FRONT PANEL, SIDE PANEL, and upper COLLAR.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center.
3. Fold the stand pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the stand.
4. Stitch and press open the center BACK PANEL seam.
5. Stitch the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
6. Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Press open the seam.
7. Fold the upper flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through the upper open edge. Shape the seams and topstitch with a double stitch 0.2 cm from the flap edge. The second flap is processed similarly. Mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL. Overcast the side edge of the upper pocket FACING. Attach the upper pocket FACING to the side and bottom edges of the pocket and overcast. Turn under and topstitch the upper edge of the pocket. Create a pleat on the pocket FACING and secure it to the pocket with a vertical bar tack 1-1.5 cm. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it. Place the flap on the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.2 cm from the stitching line. The second pocket (on the SLEEVE) is processed similarly.
8. Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Attach the lower edges of the front FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances of the upper and lower front edge corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge stitching onto the front FACING in the fastener area. The stitching is 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, shape the seams.
9. Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
10. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back FACING.
11. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Mark the pocket and flap placement on the SLEEVE. Topstitch the pocket and flap onto the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
12. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
13. On the cut LINING pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
14. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACING and back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
15. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
16. Mark and sew the Velcro tape.