Utility Pocket Blazer

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Lower COLLAR - 1 QTY
2. Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Upper Flap – 2 QTY
5. FACING – 2 QTY
6. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
7. Back SIDE PANEL – 2 QTY
8. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
9. Patch pocket – 2 QTY
10. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
11. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
12. Lower Flap – 4 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Back SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
4. Pocket LINING –2 QTY
5. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
6. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, upper flap, lower flap, GRAIN LINE, FRONT PANEL, sleeve and jacket hem, back neckline FACING, upper COLLAR.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the FACING, upper flap, lower flap, FRONT PANEL, sleeve hem, jacket hem, back neckline FACING, and upper COLLAR with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center. Stitch FRONT PANEL darts and trim the dart depth.
3. Place upper flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the flap corner SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn out. Straighten seams and press. Overcast the raw edge of the flap. Mark the placement of the breast pocket. Attach the flap to the FRONT PANEL, turn down, and topstitch.
4. Place lower flap pieces right sides together and stitch around. Trim the flap corner SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn out. Press the flap, overcast the raw edge of the flap.
5. Place upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch around. Trim seams at corners, turn out, straighten, and press the COLLAR.
6. Mark the pocket placement. Attach the pocket LINING to the upper edge of the pocket and stitch the LINING and pocket edges along the contour, leaving an opening in the side seam about 5 cm long for turning out the pocket. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the rounded pocket corners and turn out the pocket. Press the pocket. Topstitch the pocket according to the marking. Mark the flap placement. Place the flap on the marking and attach. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
7. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Attach the lower edges of the FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the front FACING SEAM ALLOWANCE: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
8. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and FACING. Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR to the neckline edge of the back FACING and FACING.
10. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
11. Set the SLEEVES into the armhole according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
12. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
13. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FACING and back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
14. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
15. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, and on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.