Shawl Collar Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. COLLAR – 2 QTY
4. LAPEL – 2 QTY
5. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
6. FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
7. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
8. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FRONT FACING, FRONT PANEL, BACK NECK FACING, COLLAR, LAPEL.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FRONT FACING, BACK NECK FACING, FRONT PANEL, COLLAR, and LAPEL.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center. Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the FRONT PANEL towards the center.
3. Attach the LAPEL to the COLLAR, press the seam open.
4. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press open the side and shoulder seams.
6. Attach the undercollar with the LAPEL to the neckline of the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press the attachment seam open.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK NECK FACING and FRONT FACING. Press open the shoulder seams of the FACING and FRONT FACING. Attach the upper COLLAR with the LAPEL to the neckline of the FRONT FACING and BACK NECK FACING. Press the attachment seam open.
8. Place the FRONT FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, LAPEL, and COLLAR edge. Stitch the lower edges of the FRONT FACINGS to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the FRONT FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
9. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE and the vent corners on the lower and upper SLEEVE. Press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE, make a NOTCH and press the vent. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
10. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
11. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
12. Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the FRONT FACINGS and BACK NECK FACING. Press open the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure close to the seams.
13. Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVES. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
14. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons. Mark and sew on buttons on the SLEEVE.