Long Raglan Sleeve Trench Coat
A below-the-knee, lined women's raincoat with a wrap front held by a tie belt, a wide notched collar, two-piece raglan sleeves and single-welt pockets. No buttons.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn rain, over trousers, skirts and dresses.
- Belted over a suit or knitwear for the commute.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, gathered in at the waist by the tie belt.
Length: Below the knee.
Collar: Wide notched collar with lapels; interfaced under collar set into the coat neckline, upper collar joined to the facings, front edges and collar topstitched 1.0 cm from the edge.
Sleeves: Raglan, cut in two parts (front and back sleeve) joined by a shoulder seam; raglan seams topstitched 1.0 cm from the edge. The underarm seams and side seams are sewn in one pass.
Front: Wrap front with no buttons or buttonholes, closed by the belt.
Pockets: Single-welt pockets on the fronts, with a self-fabric underlay piece on the upper pocket bag; the short ends of the welt are topstitched to the front.
Back: Centre back seam.
Waist: Tie belt in one piece, topstitched all round 0.5 cm from the edge.
Finishing: Interfaced front facings, back neckline facing, collar, welts and hem allowances; raglan shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining, including the sleeves, stitched to the sleeve hems and facings and hand-hemmed at the lower edge; pocket bags in lining fabric.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Single-welt pockets, a two-part notched collar joined to the facings, raglan seams with topstitching and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Raincoat fabrics.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Raglan shoulder pads
Fabric & Materials
Raincoat fabric 150 cm wide, lining fabric, fusible interfacing, raglan shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics.
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back - 2 pieces
- 2. Back Neckline Facing - 1 piece on fold
- 3. Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- 4. Off-Set Welt - 2 pieces
- 5. Front - 2 pieces
- 6. Collar - 2 pieces
- 7. Underlay Piece - 2 pieces
- 8. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 9. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 10. Waistband (tie belt) - 1 piece
- From lining:
- 11. Back Lining - 2 pieces
- 12. Front Lining - 2 pieces
- 13. Back Sleeve Lining - 2 pieces
- 14. Front Sleeve Lining - 2 pieces
- 15. Pocket Bag - 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce the center front facings, back neckline facing, collar and off-set welts. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the center front facings, under collar, off-set welts and back neckline facing with fusible interfacing (heat-activated interfacing is pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- On the fronts, make the welt pockets: fold each off-set welt right sides together, stitch the short ends, turn right side out and press. Edgestitch the fold.
- On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Turn under one long edge of the underlay piece and topstitch the underlay piece to the upper pocket bag.
- Place the off-set welt and the upper pocket bag on the front, right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking and stitch, making sure the long raw edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking.
- Cut the front between the stitching lines, cutting diagonally towards the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to cut the welt and pocket bags! Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the welt and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste.
- On the wrong side of the front, place the lower pocket bag onto the welt with the pocket bag pointing upwards, and from the right side stitch in the ditch of the welt seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch them down exactly from the end of the upper stitching to the end of the lower stitching.
- Trim the pocket bags even and stitch them together. Topstitch the short ends of the welt to the front.
- Stitch the raglan seams joining the front and back sleeves to the back and fronts, and topstitch at 1.0 cm.
- Stitch the upper (shoulder) seams of the sleeves.
- Stitch the underarm sleeve seams and the side seams of the coat in one pass.
- Attach the under collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings, then attach the upper collar to the neckline of the facings. Press the seam allowances open and clip the curves.
- Place the upper collar joined with the facings on the coat, right sides together, and stitch the front edges and collar. Turn right side out and press.
- Turn under the raw edge of the upper collar and stitch it to the neckline. From the right side, roll and straighten the front edges and collar, and baste.
- Hem: fold the center front facings forward (right sides together), turn the hem allowance to the wrong side and hand-stitch it in place. Turn the facings to the wrong side.
- Topstitch the front edges and collar at 1.0 cm.
- Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together.
- Stitch the lining to the lower edges of the sleeves, the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Hand-hem the lining.
- Fold the waistband (tie belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side and one short end; turn right side out and press the folds. Turn in the open end and topstitch around the whole belt at 0.5 cm.
