Long Princess Seam Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Upper BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold
• 2. Lower BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold
• 3. Side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 4. Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 5. Upper FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
• 6. Lower FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
• 7. FACING - 2 QTY
• 8. COLLAR - 2 QTY
• 9. COLLAR Stand - 2 QTY
• 10. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 11. Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 12. Tab - 2 QTY
• 13. Pocket Flap - 4 QTY
• 14. Pocket Facing - 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 15. BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold
• 16. FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 17. Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 18. Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 19. Pocket Bag - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce FACING pieces, one tab piece, upper flap pieces, one COLLAR piece and stand. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce FACING pieces, one tab piece, upper flap pieces, one COLLAR piece and stand with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. On the lower BACK PANEL, create and baste the pleat, aligning the NOTCHES. Then stitch it, placing the stitch line slightly above the marked line on the upper SEAM ALLOWANCE.
3. Assemble the BACK PANEL: stitch the seam connecting the upper BACK PANEL to the lower BACK PANEL, and the relief seams. Stitch the pleat according to the markings.
4. Stitch the tab on three sides, turn right side out, and press the folds. Turning under the raw edge, stitch along the edges of the tab at a distance of 0.5 cm. Attach the tab to the BACK PANEL with buttons, covering the seam connecting the upper BACK PANEL to the lower BACK PANEL.
5. POCKETS: Neatly stitch the flap pieces together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. Fold under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of one of the long sides of the pocket facing and topstitch the pocket facing to the pocket bag.
6. Align the raw edges of the flaps with the lower edge of the upper FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL, placing the flap on the right side of the upper FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL; place the pocket bag with the pocket facing on top of the flap, baste all layers. Stitch the flap and pocket bag and turn down.
7. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the upper edge of the lower FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL to the wrong side. Baste the pocket opening (upper FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL to lower FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL) with cross stitches.
8. Fold the pocket bag along the fold line, turn under the raw edge and topstitch to the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the upper edge of the lower FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL. Baste the pocket bags to the edges of the lower FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL.
9. Stitch the relief seams of the FRONT PANELs. Stitch the shoulder and side seams.
10. Stitch the FUSIBLE INTERFACING-reinforced stand to the reinforced COLLAR, and the unreinforced stand to the unreinforced COLLAR, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
11. Stitch the LINING fabric pieces. Stitch the shoulder seams of the FACINGs and the BACK PANEL LINING, finish the FACINGs with the LINING along the inner edges.
12. Insert the reinforced stand piece into the neckline, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open; attach the unreinforced stand to the FACINGs with the LINING.
13. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the FACINGs and LINING, onto the main garment right sides together and stitch the fronts and COLLAR; turn right side out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR stand to the neckline.
14. From the right side of the garment, straighten the front and COLLAR, baste.
15. Reinforce the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE and the vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the SLEEVE seams, leaving the vents open on the elbow seams of the SLEEVEs.
16. Above the vent mark, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower SLEEVE parts. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open above the vent. Finish the SLEEVEs with a hem.
17. Press the edges of the vents on the upper SLEEVE parts to the wrong side. Pin the vents, topstitch the edges of the vents together from the inside.
18. Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron.
19. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the control marks, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side.
20. Attach shoulder pads. Hem the bottom of the coat.
21. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVEs. Hem the LINING.
22. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons.