Raglan Swing Coat with Zipper

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• 2. BACK NECK FACING - 1 QTY on fold
• 3. FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
• 4. COLLAR - 2 QTY
• 5. CENTER FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 6. SIDE FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• 7. BACK SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 8. FRONT SLEEVE - 2 QTY
• 9. CUFF - 4 QTY
• From LINING: prepare pieces: cut off the neck FACING from the BACK PANEL, add 1 cm along the center back line for ease; join the center and side FRONT PANELs into one piece, cut off the FRONT FACING; on the SLEEVE pieces, cut off the FACING and FRONT FACING sections.
• 10. POCKET BAG - 4 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce the FRONT FACING pieces, BACK NECK FACING, COLLAR, and CUFFS with interfacing. Additionally, press the interfacing to the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the FRONT FACINGs, lower COLLAR, CUFFS, and BACK NECK FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-adhesive interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the center back seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANELs, leaving the pocket openings open. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, spread the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the pocket openings to both sides of the pocket opening.
4. Baste each ZIPPER under the edges of the pocket opening so that the teeth are not visible.
5. Topstitch the FRONT PANELs along the princess seams and along the front edges of the pocket openings at a distance of 1 cm.
6. Attach one POCKET BAG from LINING fabric to the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the front edge of the pocket opening, the second POCKET BAG to the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the back edge of the pocket opening. Turn the POCKET BAGs forward, trim, equalize, and stitch.
7. Stitch the raglan seams on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, topstitch at a distance of 1.0 cm.
8. Stitch the upper SLEEVE seams, topstitch at a distance of 1.0 cm.
9. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seams and the side seams of the coat.
10. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Separate the separating ZIPPER, turn under the upper ends of the ZIPPER tapes. Lay each ZIPPER tape with the outer side on the right side of the FRONT PANEL along the edge of the front opening so that the teeth lie on the FRONT PANEL, and the tape - on the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the edge of the front opening and stitch to the edge of the front opening; start the seam at the neckline.
12. Insert the lower COLLAR into the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK NECK FACING and FRONT FACINGs, insert the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the FACING and FRONT FACINGs; press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves.
13. Lay the upper COLLAR, combined with the FRONT FACINGs, onto the main garment right side in and face the front openings and COLLAR; turn out and press; hem the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline.
14. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front opening and COLLAR, baste.
15. Bottom edge: lay the FRONT FACINGs forward. Turn the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the FRONT FACINGs to the wrong side.
16. Topstitch the front openings and COLLAR at a distance of 1.0 cm.
17. Fold the CUFF pieces in pairs right sides together and neatly stitch along the upper edges. Lay each CUFF flat and stitch the short edges. Fold the CUFF in half, wrong side to wrong side, topstitch along the fold at a distance of 1.0 cm.
18. Attach one CUFF piece right side to right side to the lower edge of the SLEEVE, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Press open SEAM ALLOWANCES to the wrong side.
19. Stitch the cut pieces from LINING fabric.
20. Attach the LINING to the edges of the SLEEVE CUFFS, the inner edges of the FRONT FACINGs, and the BACK NECK FACING. Hem the LINING.