ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND ARRANGE THEM ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can range from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
Fabric & Materials
YOU WILL NEED: Elastic knit fabric, stretchable in the lengthwise direction, 150 cm wide - to determine the length of material needed for cutting the garment, lay out the paper patterns on the fabric width and determine the required length; keep in mind that elastic fabrics shrink by almost 10% when washed and ironed. When purchasing fabric, account for this allowance and iron the fabric through a damp cloth before cutting. Iron the fabric from the wrong side. When buying fabric, ask how to care for it (can it be washed or only dry-cleaned) and if it can be ironed; LINING fabric 140 cm wide; ZIPPER 65 cm long; 2 decorative buttons for the SLEEVES; FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Fabric recommendations: light wool or blended fabrics. Elastic fabrics are most comfortable for this model.
CUTTER'S MUST
- Center FRONT PANEL - 1 piece on fold
- SIDE PANEL - 2 pieces
- BACK PANEL - 2 pieces
- Front yoke - 2 pieces on fold
- SLEEVE - 2 pieces
- SLEEVE FACING - 2 pieces
LINING: for the FRONT PANEL piece, glue together the paper patterns of the center and side FRONT PANELS. Cut FRONT PANEL pieces with darts; BACK PANEL.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce armholes, neckline, and the center of the front yokes with strips of FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Sew the back center seam below the ZIPPER mark, front princess seams, and side seams.
- Stitch darts.
- Fold front yokes right sides together, stitch along the center below the slit mark. Press yokes open.
- Attach the outer halves of the yokes to the FRONT PANEL up to the center mark, for which slash the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the center FRONT PANEL in the middle.
- LINING: sew the back center seam below the slit mark, stitch darts, sew side seams.
- Pin the ZIPPER to the edges of the slit on the BACK PANEL from the right side, wrong side up, with the ZIPPER teeth lying on the BACK PANEL and the edge of the ZIPPER tape aligning with the slit mark. Stitch the ZIPPER along the center of the tape.
- At the top, pin the ZIPPER to the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES, with the teeth aligning with the slit mark. Stitch the ZIPPER close to the teeth for a length of 5 cm.
- Fold the LINING and dress right sides together, stitch the neckline. Slash the SEAM ALLOWANCES on curves in several places. Turn the LINING to the wrong side. Stitch the ZIPPER.
- Attach the inner halves of the yoke to the FRONT PANEL piece made of LINING fabric up to the center front mark, for which slash the SEAM ALLOWANCE on the LINING in the middle.
- Sew shoulder seams. Baste the LINING and inner yokes along the armholes.
- Pin the FACING and SLEEVE right sides together, stitch the lower edges, making 1-2 stitches across at the end of the slit. Slash the allowance on curves in several places, at the end of the slit slash up to the stitching. Sew the SLEEVE and FACING seam in one continuous stitch.
- Turn the FACING to the wrong side and sew it.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, catching the LINING.
- Hem the dress. Hem the LINING 2 cm shorter than the dress.
- Sew buttons to the ends of the slits on the SLEEVES.
