Long Raglan Sleeve Trench Coat
Introducing a versatile women's sewing pattern for a classic long trench coat featuring elegant raglan sleeves, a refined notched collar, and a stylish tie belt.
When To Wear
This trench coat is a perfect outerwear choice for diverse occasions, offering both style and practicality:
- Transitional Weather: Ideal for layering during spring and autumn, providing protection from elements with effortless style.
- Smart Casual & Business Ensembles: Elevates everyday looks and complements office attire with its polished silhouette.
- Travel & City Exploration: A sophisticated and comfortable companion for navigating urban landscapes or during journeys.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A long, straight silhouette that drapes gracefully, cinched at the waist by a removable tie belt for a customizable fit.
Collar & Lapel: Features a sharp notched lapel collar, designed for versatility to be worn open or fastened for warmth.
Closure: A single-breasted front with a deep overlap, secured by a chic fabric tie belt at the waist.
Sleeves: Full-length raglan sleeves, offering a relaxed yet sophisticated shoulder line and comfortable movement.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with clean flaps are integrated into the front panels, combining utility with sleek design.
Back: A clean back panel with a central seam and a functional back vent, ensuring a smooth and streamlined appearance.
Length: Designed to fall below the knee, providing ample coverage and a contemporary longline aesthetic.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with techniques such as welt pocket construction, collar attachment, raglan sleeve setting, and lining a full coat.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with good drape and durability, suitable for outerwear:
- Trench coating fabrics
- Gabardine
- Water-resistant blends
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Raglan shoulder pads
For raglan sleeves, you will need: raincoat fabric 150 cm wide, lining fabric, fusible interfacing, raglan shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics. If the pattern pieces have a double outline, seam allowances are included. If the outline is single, seam allowances are not included.
Fabric & Materials
Raincoat fabric 150 cm wide, lining fabric, fusible interfacing, raglan shoulder pads. Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics.
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back - 2 pieces
- 2. Back neck facing - 1 piece on fold
- 3. Front facing - 2 pieces
- 4. Welt - 2 pieces
- 5. Front - 2 pieces
- 6. Collar - 2 pieces
- 7. Underlay - 2 pieces
- 8. Back sleeve - 2 pieces
- 9. Front sleeve - 2 pieces
- 10. Belt - 1 piece
- From lining:
- 11. Back - 2 pieces
- 12. Front - 2 pieces
- 13. Back sleeve - 2 pieces
- 14. Front sleeve - 2 pieces
- 15. Pocket bag - 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: reinforce front facings, back neck facing, collar and welts. Additionally, press fusible interfacing to the hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce front facings, lower collar, pocket welts, and back neck facing with fusible interfacing (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- On the front panels, create welt pockets: cleanly stitch the welts along the short sides, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch the fold close to the edge.
- On the wrong side of the front, press a strip of fusible interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Turn under one long edge of the underlay and topstitch the underlay to the upper pocket bag.
- Place the pocket welt and upper pocket bag with the front right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the welt and pocket bag align with the center line of the pocket marking.
- Cut the front lengthwise between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the welts and pocket bags! Press the seam allowances open.
- Turn the welts and pocket bags through the opening to the wrong side and baste.
- On the wrong side of the front, place the lower pocket bag onto the welt, directing the pocket bag upwards, and from the right side, topstitch the welt into the attachment seam, catching the pocket bag. Press the pocket bag downwards.
- Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching.
- Trim and stitch the pocket bags. Topstitch the welt along the short sides to the front.
- Stitch the raglan seams on the back and front, topstitch at a distance of 1.0 cm.
- Stitch the upper sleeve seams.
- Stitch the lower sleeve seams and the side seams of the coat.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facings, attach the upper collar to the neckline of the facing and front facings, press the seam allowances open, and clip curves.
- Place the upper collar, joined with the front facings, onto the main garment right side in, and stitch the front edges and collar. Turn right side out and press.
- Fold under the edge of the upper collar and topstitch to the neckline. From the right side of the garment, turn and straighten the front edge and collar, baste.
- Bottom edge: lay the front facings forward. Turn the hem seam allowances to the wrong side and sew. Turn the front facings to the wrong side.
- Topstitch the front edges and collar at a distance of 1.0 cm.
- Sew on shoulder pads.
- Stitch the cut pieces from the lining fabric.
- Attach the lining to the lower sleeve edges, inner edges of the front facings, and back neck facing.
- Hem the lining.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and cleanly stitch along the long side and one short side, turn right side out, and press the folds. Turning under the open edge, stitch around the perimeter of the belt at a distance of 0.5 cm.
