Single-Breasted Wool Jacket

CUTTER'S MUST

• From WOOL:
• BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
• FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
• Upper SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
• Lower SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
• COLLAR - 2 QTY
• Pocket flap - 2 QTY
• Pocket frame - 4 QTY
• Facing - 2 QTY
• BACK PANEL neckline FACING - 1 QTY
• From LINING FABRIC:
• Cut FRONT PANEL pieces deducting the width of the FACINGS. Cut SLEEVE hems with SEAM ALLOWANCES only. Cut BACK PANEL deducting the width of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING, on the fold at the center. The GRAIN LINE runs parallel to the fabric fold, resulting in a ease fold approximately 1 cm deep.
• Pocket bag - 4 QTY
• Pocket flap - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• Additionally, iron FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem allowances of the BACK PANEL pieces.

Note: If you are sewing a jacket from plaid fabric, pin the pieces to the fabric, aligning the plaid pattern at the seams.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the FACINGS, lower COLLAR, pocket flaps, and BACK PANEL neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. On the FRONT PANELS, stitch and press open the darts, trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the pocket openings. Baste the pocket openings with cross stitches, precisely aligning the edges of the openings.
3. Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
4. On the FRONT PANELS, create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGS AND FLAPS: cleanly stitch one flap from the main fabric and one from the LINING fabric together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, iron a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Fold two pocket FACINGS with the FRONT PANEL right sides together, pin along the marking for the pocket opening and stitch, paying attention that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along between the stitching lines, diagonally towards the ends of the stitching lines. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side so that a neat frame is formed, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGS in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching line to the ends of the lower stitching line. Insert the open edges of the flaps between the FACINGS, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGS. Attach the pocket bags from the inside to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap attachments and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachments. Trim and stitch the pocket bags, evening them out.
5. On the BACK PANEL pieces, stitch and press open the darts. Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center line.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the BACK PANEL neckline FACING and FACINGS, attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and FACINGS; press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip at curves. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the FACINGS, onto the main garment right side in and stitch the fronts and COLLAR; turn out and press; hem the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front and COLLAR, baste.
7. Create a "Two-piece SLEEVE" - Reinforce the hem allowance of the SLEEVE hem with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE; press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn the SLEEVE right side out. Press the SLEEVE hem allowance inwards.
8. Create a "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread until it matches the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the control marks, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Create a "LINING" - Create an ease fold and secure it under the neckline and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment. Stitch the LINING BACK PANEL along the center seam and the darts on the LINING pieces. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch the main garment with the LINING along the FACINGS and neckline. Create a ease fold at the bottom and attach the LINING to the hem allowance. Turn the garment through the remaining unstitched SLEEVE section, stitch this section. Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and sew on buttons.