Fabric & Materials
From WOOL:
- Pocket flap - 2 QTY
- Center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL neckline FACING - 1 QTY
- Pocket FACING - 4 QTY
- Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- Front facing - 2 QTY
- Upper SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- Lower SLEEVE - 2 QTY
From LINING FABRIC:
- Upper pocket bag - 2 QTY
- Lower pocket bag - 2 QTY
- Pocket flap - 2 QTY
From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
Reinforce front facings, back neckline FACING, and pocket flaps with interfacing. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem of the BACK PANEL details.
CUTTER'S MUST
From LINING FABRIC: Join the center and side FRONT PANELs into one piece, replacing the princess seams with darts. Cut the FRONT PANEL LINING piece, subtracting the width of the front facings. Cut the bottom of the SLEEVES with only a SEAM ALLOWANCE. Cut the center BACK PANEL, subtracting the width of the back neckline FACING, with a fold in the middle. The GRAIN LINE runs parallel to the fabric fold, resulting in a pleat for ease of approximately 1 cm deep. Cut the SIDE PANEL without changes.
Note: If you are sewing a plaid jacket, pin the pieces to the fabric, aligning the plaid at the seams.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the front facings, pocket flaps from the main fabric, and the back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are pressed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- On the FRONT PANELs, stitch and press open the princess seams, trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the pocket openings. Baste the pocket openings with cross stitches, precisely aligning the edges of the openings.
- Stitch the side seams of the jacket.
- On the FRONT PANELs, create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGS AND FLAPS: Clean finish one flap from main fabric and one from LINING fabric by stitching them together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, press a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Place two pocket FACINGS right sides together with the FRONT PANEL, pin along the marking for the pocket opening, and stitch, ensuring that the lengthwise edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the line between the stitching, diagonally to the ends of the stitching. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGS through the slit to the wrong side to form a neat welt, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGS in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch in the ditch of the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the open edges of the flaps between the FACINGS, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGS. Attach the pocket bags from the inside to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the flap attachment and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachment. Trim the pocket bags, evening them out, and stitch.
- Stitch the BACK PANEL along the center line. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the BACK PANEL.
- Stitch the shoulder seams.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facing and the back neckline FACING. Place the front facings right sides together with the FRONT PANELs and pin to the edges of the fronts and neckline, stitch the side edge of the front facing to the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the hem of the BACK PANEL; finish the front edges with the front facings. From the right side of the garment, turn and straighten the front edge, baste. Topstitch the front edges.
- Create a "Two-piece SLEEVE" - Reinforce the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE; press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES and turn the SLEEVE right side out. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the SLEEVE to the inside.
- Create a "SLEEVE" - Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the armhole of the garment. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, aligning the NOTCHES, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
- Create a "LINING" - Create a pleat for ease and secure it under the neckline opening and a few centimeters above the hemline of the garment. Stitch the darts on the LINING pieces. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment, leaving an unstitched section of about 20 cm on the elbow seam of one of the SLEEVES. Insert the LINING into the main garment right sides together, aligning along the center BACK PANEL line and shoulder seams. Finish the main garment with the LINING along the front facings and neckline opening. Create a release pleat at the bottom and attach the LINING to the hem edge. Turn the garment right side out through the unstitched SLEEVE section, then stitch this section closed. Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and sew on buttons.
