Long Hood-Scarf-Collar Semi Raglan Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• 2. Back neckline FACING - QTY 1
• 3. Center FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 4. Side FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 5. Underlap - QTY 2
• 6. Right COLLAR part - QTY 2
• 7. Left COLLAR part - QTY 2
• 8. Back SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• 9. Front SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• 10. Pocket welt - QTY 2
• 11. SLEEVE CUFF - QTY 2
• 12. CUFF facing - QTY 2
• From LINING fabric:
• 13. SLEEVE CUFF - QTY 2
• 14. BACK PANEL - QTY 2
• 15. FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
• 16. Back SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• 17. Front SLEEVE part - QTY 2
• 18. Pocket bag - QTY 4
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce underlaps, back neckline FACING, lower parts of welts, CUFF facings. Additionally, press FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the SEAM ALLOWANCES for the hem.

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch the welt piece along the short sides, turn right side out, and press the folds.
2. Topstitch along the edges of the welt at a distance of 1.0 cm.
3. Align the open edges of the welt with the relief seam of the center FRONT PANEL, placing the welt on the right side of the center FRONT PANEL and aligning the upper edge of the welt with the NOTCH; place the upper part of the pocket bag on top of the welt, baste all together.
4. Place the lower part of the pocket bag on the right side of the side FRONT PANEL.
5. Stitch the welt and pocket bags.
6. Stitch the relief seams of the FRONT PANELS.
7. Turn the pocket bags inwards, align, and stitch.
8. Topstitch the short sides of the welts to the FRONT PANEL into the topstitching seam.
9. Set the front SLEEVE parts into the armholes of the FRONT PANELS, the back parts into the armholes of the BACK PANEL.
10. Stitch the upper SLEEVE seams.
11. Stitch the lower SLEEVE seams and the side seams of the coat.
12. Stitch the shoulder seams of the underlaps and the back neckline FACING.
13. Fold the underlaps and FACING with the coat (right sides together) and cleanly stitch along the edges.
14. Cleanly stitch the scarf-hood along the outer contour up to the NOTCH for insertion into the neckline.
15. Set one hood piece face to face into the neckline.
16. Stitch the other hood piece to the neckline FACING and underlaps. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
17. Stitch the pressed SEAM ALLOWANCES of the hood insertion and the back neckline FACING together.
18. Stitch the CUFF pieces from the main and LINING fabric into a ring.
19. Face the CUFFS with LINING, topstitch along the upper edge at a distance of 1.5 cm.
20. Stitch the lower edge of the CUFF from the LINING fabric to the CUFF facing, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open and topstitch.
21. Stitch the CUFF facing to the SLEEVE.
22. Bottom edge: lay the underlaps forward. Turn the hem allowances to the wrong side and sew.
23. Turn the underlaps to the wrong side.
24. Topstitch the edges and COLLAR at a distance of 1.5 cm.
25. Sew on shoulder pads.
26. Stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric.
27. Stitch the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVE CUFFS, the inner edges of the underlaps, and the back neckline FACING.
28. Hem the LINING.
29. On the right FRONT PANEL, overcast buttonholes, on the left, sew on buttons.