Short Tailored Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. Pocket Flap - QTY 2
• 2. Center Back Panel - QTY 2
• 3. Side Back Panel - QTY 2
• 4. Side Front Panel - QTY 2
• 5. Back Neck FACING - QTY 1
• 6. Pocket FACING - QTY 4
• 7. COLLAR - QTY 2
• 8. Center Front Panel - QTY 2
• 9. Underlap - QTY 2
• 10. Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
• 11. Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
• From LINING FABRIC: Cut FRONT PANEL pieces, deducting the width of the underlaps. Cut SLEEVE hems with SEAM ALLOWANCES only. Cut BACK PANEL, deducting the width of the back neck FACING.
• 12. Upper Pocket Bag - QTY 2
• 13. Lower Pocket Bag - QTY 2
• 14. Pocket Flap - QTY 2
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Reinforce underlaps, back neck FACING, lower COLLAR, and pocket flaps from the main fabric. Additionally, iron FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the hem allowances of the back panel pieces.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce underlaps, lower COLLAR, pocket flaps, and back neck FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed to the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent. Press the integrated vent FACING (left BACK PANEL) along the fold line to the wrong side and stitch to the hem. Topstitch the left BACK PANEL along the seam. On the right vent allowance, press the integrated FACING to the wrong side, stitch to the lower hem allowances. Pin the vent along the matching lines.
3. Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANELs and BACK PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
4. On the FRONT PANELs, create WELT POCKETS WITH TWO FACINGS AND FLAPS: Clean finish one flap from main fabric and one from LINING fabric, stitching them together along the side and bottom edges. Topstitch the edges. On the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, iron a strip of interfacing approximately 4 cm wide over the pocket marking. Fold two pocket FACINGS with the FRONT PANEL right sides together, pin along the pocket opening marking, and stitch, ensuring that the longitudinal edges of the FACINGS align with the center line of the pocket marking. Cut the FRONT PANEL along the lines between the stitches, diagonally towards the ends of the stitches. Be careful not to damage the FACINGS! Press the cut edges away from the openings. Turn the FACINGS through the opening to the wrong side to form a neat welt, and baste, aligning the folded edges of the FACINGS in the middle of the pocket openings. Stitch into the attachment seams. Turn the small triangles at the ends of the opening to the wrong side and stitch to the FACINGS precisely from the ends of the upper stitching to the ends of the lower stitching. Insert the open edges of the flaps between the FACINGS, stitch into the attachment seams of the upper FACINGS. Attach the pocket bags from the inside to the flap attachment allowances and to the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower FACING attachments. Trim and stitch the pocket bags.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
6. Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline; stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck FACING and underlaps, attach the upper COLLAR to the neckline of the FACING and underlaps; press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clip curves. Place the upper COLLAR, combined with the underlaps, onto the main garment right side in, and stitch the front edges and COLLAR; turn out and press; hand stitch the edge of the upper COLLAR to the neckline. From the right side of the garment, turn out and straighten the front edge and COLLAR, baste.
7. Bottom edge: Lay the underlaps forward. Turn the hem allowances to the wrong side and stitch. Turn the underlaps to the wrong side.
8. Construct the two-piece SLEEVE. Reinforce the SLEEVE hem allowance with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the upper and elbow parts of the SLEEVE; press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and turn the SLEEVE right side out. Press the SLEEVE hem allowance inwards. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes. Gather the SLEEVE cap with small, frequent stitches between the indicated marks and pull the thread to match the corresponding distance on the garment's armhole. Dampen the fabric and shrink the gathers with the tip of a hot iron. Pin the SLEEVE to the garment, matching control marks, and stitch, sewing from the SLEEVE side. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Stitch the cut pieces from the LINING fabric. Attach the LINING to the lower edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the underlaps, and the back neck FACING. Carefully pin the LINING in the vent area on the BACK PANEL. Cut the LINING along the vent accordingly, remembering the SEAM ALLOWANCES! Turn under the LINING edges and stitch to the edges of the vent. Hem the LINING.
10. Make buttonholes on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings and attach buttons.