Princess Seam Velour Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL center part - 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL side part - 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
4. Upper SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
5. Elbow SLEEVE part - 2 QTY
6. FRONT FACING - 2 QTY
7. BACK neckline FACING - 1 QTY on fold
8. COLLAR - 2 QTY on fold
9. Pocket bag - 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric: FRONT PANEL center part - minus the width of the FRONT FACING; BACK PANEL - minus the width of the neckline FACING; FRONT PANEL side part, upper, elbow SLEEVE parts - unchanged; pocket bag - 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING: reinforce FRONT FACING pieces, BACK neckline FACING, COLLAR.

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the FRONT FACING pieces, BACK neckline FACING, and COLLAR with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
2. Sew the front princess seams. In the front princess seam of each FRONT PANEL, leave the pocket opening open. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
3. From the wrong side of the FRONT PANEL, fold both pocket bags with the pocket opening SEAM ALLOWANCES right sides together, pin, and stitch along the marked lines of the princess seam: the pocket bag from the main fabric - to the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the pocket opening of the FRONT PANEL side part, the pocket bag from the LINING fabric - to the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the pocket opening of the FRONT PANEL center part (stitch this pocket bag along the center line of the SEAM ALLOWANCE along the pocket opening). Press pocket bags forward, trim, equalize, and stitch together.
4. Sew the center BACK PANEL seam, side seams, and shoulder seams.
5. Stitch the right FRONT FACING to the bottom edge (stopping 5 cm before the end of the FRONT FACING) and to the edge of the right FRONT PANEL up to the corner (transverse NOTCH). Baste the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL along the fold line up to the neckline edge. Lay flat and press open the right FRONT PANEL and the right FRONT FACING, as well as the narrow one-piece FACINGS.
6. Work buttonholes for the fly (concealed) closure. Place the narrow FRONT PANEL FACING on the placket with buttonholes and stitch the bottom edges. Baste the FACING and placket to the FRONT FACING. Remove basting along the edge of the front.
7. Stitch the left FRONT FACING to the bottom edge (stopping 5 cm before the end of the FRONT FACING) and to the edge of the left FRONT PANEL up to the neckline edge. Trim the one-piece narrow FACINGS to the width of the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
8. Stitch the BACK neckline FACING to the FRONT FACINGS.
9. Neatly stitch the COLLAR along the outer contour and, taking the open edges together, baste into the neckline from edge to edge of the front. Stitch the FRONT FACINGS and BACK neckline FACING to the neckline edge over the COLLAR. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching. Turn the FRONT FACINGS and FACING to the wrong side.
10. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCE of the coat to the wrong side, but do not stitch yet. Press the front edges.
11. Hand-stitch the placket with buttonholes to the edge of the right FRONT PANEL between the buttonholes with a couple of stitches.
12. Sew the SLEEVE seams. Press the hem SEAM ALLOWANCES of the SLEEVES to the wrong side, but do not stitch yet.
13. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the sleeve caps. Under the SEAM ALLOWANCES of each SLEEVE's setting seam in the sleeve cap area, stitch a strip of synthetic padding approx. 4 cm wide. Attach shoulder pads.
14. Stitch the LINING fabric pieces. Stitch the LINING to the bottom edges of the SLEEVES, the inner edges of the FRONT FACINGS, and the BACK neckline FACING. Hem the LINING.