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#5076
#5078

Fitted Dress With Yoke

Pattern #5077

A fitted, lined women's dress of knee length with a self-lined front yoke and a short slit at the centre front neckline, front princess seams running from the yoke to the hem, a centre back zipper and short sleeves with a faced slit and a button. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: light wool or blended fabrics; stretch fabrics are the most comfortable for this dress, including knit with lengthwise stretch.

Tech. Description

Fitted Dress With Yoke

A fitted, lined women's dress of knee length with a self-lined front yoke and a short slit at the centre front neckline, front princess seams running from the yoke to the hem, a centre back zipper and short sleeves with a faced slit and a button.

When To Wear

  • For the office, alone or under a jacket.
  • In spring and early autumn, for daytime events.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted sheath, shaped by front princess seams and two vertical darts on the back.

Length: About knee length.

Neckline: Round neckline with a short slit at the centre front of the yoke; neckline finished with the lining.

Front: Middle front and two side fronts below a curved front yoke; the yoke is cut double (outer and inner yoke), joined at the centre below the slit mark.

Sleeves: Short, set in, with a slit at the outer hem finished with a facing; one decorative button at the top of each slit.

Closure: Zipper in the centre back seam, 65 cm long.

Back: Centre back seam and two vertical darts.

Finishing: Armholes, neckline and centre of the yokes stayed with strips of fusible interfacing.

Lining: Fully lined; the front lining is one piece with darts in place of the princess seams, caught into the armhole seams and hemmed 2 cm shorter than the dress.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. A double yoke joined into the front and lining, a slit neckline, a long back zipper set with the lining and faced sleeve slits.

Fabric Recommendations

Light wool or blended fabrics; stretch fabrics are the most comfortable for this dress, including knit with lengthwise stretch. Stretch fabrics can shrink by almost 10% when washed and pressed: press the fabric through a damp cloth from the wrong side before cutting.

Additional Supplies

  • Lining fabric
  • Zipper, 65 cm long
  • 2 decorative buttons for the sleeves
  • Fusible interfacing (stay strips)

Cutter's Must

  • From main fabric:
  • Middle Front – 1 piece (on fold)
  • Side Front – 2 pieces
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front Yoke – 2 pieces (on fold)
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve Facing – 2 pieces
  • From lining:
  • Front – 1 piece (on fold; Middle Front and Side Front patterns joined, cut with darts)
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • From fusible interfacing:
  • Stay strips for the armholes, neckline and center of the front yokes

Sewing Instructions

  1. Reinforce the armholes, neckline and the center of the front yokes with strips of fusible interfacing.
  2. Stitch the center back seam below the zipper mark, the front princess seams and the side seams.
  3. Stitch the darts.
  4. Place the two front yokes right sides together and stitch along the center below the slit mark. Press the seam open.
  5. Stitch the outer layer of the yoke to the dress front up to the center mark, clipping the seam allowance of the middle front at the center.
  6. Lining: Stitch the center back seam below the zipper mark, stitch the darts and the side seams.
  7. Pin the zipper face down to the edges of the back opening on the right side, with the zipper teeth lying on the back and the edge of the zipper tape level with the opening mark. Stitch the zipper along the middle of the tape.
  8. At the top, pin the zipper to the opening allowances, with the teeth on the opening mark. Stitch the zipper close to the teeth for 5 cm.
  9. Place the lining and dress right sides together and stitch the neckline. Clip the seam allowances on the curves in several places. Turn the lining to the wrong side. Stitch the rest of the zipper.
  10. Stitch the inner layer of the yoke to the lining front up to the center front mark, clipping the lining seam allowance at the center.
  11. Stitch the shoulder seams. Baste the lining and inner yoke to the armholes.
  12. Pin the sleeve facing to the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch the lower edges, making 1–2 stitches across at the top of the slit. Clip the allowance on the curves in several places and clip up to the stitching at the top of the slit. Stitch the sleeve seam and the facing seam in one continuous seam.
  13. Turn the sleeve facing to the wrong side and sew it in place.
  14. Set the sleeves into the armholes, catching the lining.
  15. Hem the dress. Hem the lining 2 cm shorter than the dress.
  16. Sew the buttons at the top of the sleeve slits.

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Standard Sizes

Individual Measurements

Please double-check the file format and paper size. Your pattern is drafted in exactly the format you select; a different format or paper size later is a new order.

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