ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
Fabric & Materials
YOU WILL NEED: Silk crepe, 115 cm wide - to determine the length of material needed for cutting, lay out the paper patterns on the fabric width and determine the required length; LINING fabric, 140 cm wide; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; 1 ZIPPER, 55 cm long. Fabric recommendations: light silk or blended fabrics.
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. BACK CENTER PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. BACK SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. FRONT SIDE PANEL - 2 QTY
- 4. BACK NECK FACING - 2 QTY
- 5. FRONT CENTER PANEL - 1 QTY on fold
- 6. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric: pieces 2,3,5 unchanged and 1 minus the width of the back neck FACING
- Interfacing: BACK NECK FACING - 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the center back seam between the slit NOTCHES. Finish and press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES, press the edges of the ZIPPER slit.
- Stitch the princess seams on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, finish and press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Baste the ZIPPER so that the teeth are not visible, and stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Stitch the BACK NECK FACINGS to the corresponding LINING pieces. Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces.
- Place the LINING and dress right sides together, pin and stitch to the neckline edge. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching. Turn the LINING up and topstitch to the SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the seam. Insert the LINING into the dress, wrong side to wrong side, turn under and sew to the ZIPPER tapes. Baste the LINING to the armhole edges of the dress without turning under.
- Stitch the SLEEVE seams. Finish and press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Finish the lower edges of the SLEEVES, press the hem allowance of the SLEEVES to the wrong side and hand stitch.
- Set in the SLEEVES. Ease each SLEEVE cap between the NOTCHES. To do this, run a long machine stitch on both sides of the marked SLEEVE setting line, slightly gathering the fabric on the bobbin thread. Place the SLEEVE and dress right sides together and pin into the armhole, first only in the lower part, aligning the SLEEVE seam with the side seam and the transverse NOTCHES on the FRONT PANEL and SLEEVE. Do not ease either the armhole or the SLEEVE! Pin the SLEEVE above the shoulder seam of the dress, aligning the transverse NOTCH on the SLEEVE cap with the seam. Then pin the SLEEVE into the upper part of the armhole, easing it slightly and evenly. Baste and stitch the SLEEVE from the SLEEVE side, starting the stitching at the SLEEVE seam. Finish the SEAM ALLOWANCES together. On the cap section, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the SLEEVE.
- Finish the lower edge of the dress, press the hem allowance of the dress to the wrong side and hand stitch. Press the edges of the lower slit. Sew the slit allowances to the dress hem. The corners can be finished as an envelope.
- At the bottom of the LINING, make a hem so that it is approx. 2 cm shorter than the dress. To prevent the LINING from "peeking out" beyond the edges of the lower slit, cut it above the slit as a rectangle, rounding the upper corners. Make a narrow hem along the cutout and topstitch it.
