CUTTER'S MUST
- MAIN FABRIC: FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- SIDE PANEL - QTY 2
- BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- COLLAR - QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
- FRONT FACING - QTY 2
- Pocket Flap - QTY 4
- Pocket FACING - QTY 4
- FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FRONT FACING - QTY 2
- FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- COLLAR - QTY 1
- Pocket Flap - QTY 2
- Pocket FACING - QTY 4
- LINING: FRONT PANEL - QTY 2
- SIDE PANEL - QTY 2
- BACK PANEL - QTY 2
- Upper SLEEVE - QTY 2
- Lower SLEEVE - QTY 2
- Pocket Bag - QTY 4
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce pocket openings on SIDE PANELS, as well as armhole edges of BACK PANEL and SIDE PANELS, with strips of FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Stitch bust darts, sew princess seams.
- Welt pockets with flaps and two FACINGS: fold FACINGS right sides together and stitch them along the attachment lines. Cut the FRONT PANEL between the stitching lines, not reaching the ends; at the ends of the stitching, slash diagonally, without damaging the FACINGS. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn FACINGS to the wrong side and, wrapping them around the edges, straighten them into an even frame. From the wrong side, stitch FACINGS along the attachment seam. Turn small triangles at the ends of the slit to the wrong side and stitch them onto the FACINGS from the end of one stitching line to the end of the other.
- Fold the interfaced and non-interfaced flap pieces right sides together and neatly stitch along the outer edges. Turn the flap right side out, press the edges. From the right side, insert the flap into the pocket opening, pin it under the upper FACING, and stitch it to the FACING from the wrong side.
- Attach the pocket bag from the LINING fabric to the lower FACING, and the pocket bag from the main fabric to the upper FACING. Trim pocket bags to the same size and stitch.
- Sew the back center seam, stitch shoulder darts, sew back princess seams and shoulder seams, as well as SLEEVE seams.
- Hem and set in SLEEVES. Attach wadding or batting, and shoulder pads.
- LINING: press the pleat for ease, stitch darts, sew princess seams and SLEEVE seams, leaving a small section of one seam open for turning the jacket right side out.
- Attach FRONT FACINGS to the LINING FRONT PANELS. Sew shoulder seams. Set in SLEEVES.
- Attach the lower COLLAR to the neckline up to the NOTCH.
- Attach the upper COLLAR to the FRONT FACINGS and LINING, for which slash the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FRONT PANELS and FRONT FACINGS at the corners up to the seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Fold the upper COLLAR with the FRONT FACINGS with right sides together with the jacket. Stitch the fronts, lapels, and COLLAR up to the NOTCH.
- Attach the bottom of the FRONT FACINGS and LINING to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out. From the wrong side, stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the COLLAR attachment seams between the cut-out corners.
- Attach the LINING in the upper armhole area to the shoulder pads. Close the open seam section on the LINING. Turn under and stitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the hem of the LINING SLEEVES.
- On both FRONT PANELS, make one buttonhole each. Sew on buttons. When sewing the button on the right FRONT PANEL, catch a flat button on the wrong side.
