Leather Jacket with Front Zip
A fitted hip-length women's jacket for leather or faux leather, with a centre front separating zip, a stand collar with a snap tab, princess seams, front and back yokes and zipped pockets. The sleeves are pieced with insets and finish in a snap-fastened cuff. Lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over T-shirts, knitwear and shirts.
- With jeans, trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Hip length, finished with a band.
Collar: Stand collar with a step at the front edge, fastened with a snap.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves; the upper sleeve is pieced with an inset and a lower inset, giving seams across the arm above and below the elbow. The elbow seam is left open at the hem and finished with a cuff that closes with a snap. Shoulder pads.
Closure: Separating zip at the centre front, topstitched 0.5 cm from the zip.
Front: Centre front, side front and side panels, with a yoke across the shoulder.
Pockets: Vertical zip pockets in the front panel seams.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and a back yoke.
Waist: Hem band with a step at the front edge, closed with a snap.
Finishing: Panel, yoke and sleeve seams topstitched 0.2 cm from the seam; collar, hem band and cuffs topstitched along the edge.
Lining: Full lining, sleeves included, attached to the facings and the hem band.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Sewing leather with topstitched seams, set-in zip pockets, a separating zip, a stepped stand collar and hem band, pieced sleeves with cuffs and a full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux or genuine leather.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- 1 separating zip
- 2 zips for the pockets
- 4 snaps
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back – 2 pieces
- 2. Side back – 2 pieces
- 3. Center front – 2 pieces
- 4. Side front – 2 pieces
- 5. Front Yoke — 2 pieces
- 6. Front side — 2 pieces
- 7. Stand – 2 pieces
- 8. Back Yoke — 2 pieces
- 9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 11. Sleeve Insert — 2 pieces
- 12. Lower sleeve Insert — 2 pieces
- 13. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- 14. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 15. Underlay - 2 pieces
- 16. Lower placket -1 piece
- 17. Sleeve placket — 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Center back – 2 pieces
- 2. Center front – 2 pieces
- 3. Side back – 2 pieces
- 4. Side front – 2 pieces
- 5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- 8. Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the panel seam allowances on the back. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch on both sides of the seam at 0.2 cm. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open in the same way.
- Attach the back yoke to the back. Press the seam allowance upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the side front to the front. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch on both sides of the seam at 0.2 cm. Attach the front side to the front. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked pocket line. On the side, clip the seam allowances at the pocket marking, press the panel seam towards the center, press the pocket opening open.
- Topstitch the underlay to the large pocket bag. Mark the pocket placement on the front. Make diagonal cuts (on the side front) 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket seam allowances through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Attach the pocket bags right sides to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Place the zipper under the pocket opening edges so that the teeth are visible. Stitch the zipper, sewing from the right side and folding back the pocket bags. Stitch the edges of the pocket bags, catching the corners.
- Topstitch along the relief at 0.2 cm from the seam, starting and ending the stitching at the pocket opening.
- Attach the yoke to the front. Press the seam allowance towards the yoke and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the upper sleeve, insert, and lower sleeve insert. Press seam allowances upwards and topstitch at 0.2 cm from the seams. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve up to the mark indicating the slit. Clip the seam allowance on the lower sleeve at the mark level. Press the seam allowance towards the upper sleeve and topstitch along the elbow seam at 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the jacket. Attach shoulder pads.
- Insert the zipper.
- Fold the stands right sides together and stitch the step up to the upper edge. Clip seam allowances at the mark, turn the stand to the right side. Attach the outer stand to the neckline of the upper garment. Clip and press open seam allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and facing. Press seam allowances open. Attach the inner stand to the neckline. Clip and press open seam allowances. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Set the sleeves.
- Fold the lower placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the step and the side of the placket. Start the stitching on the side strictly at the marked placket attachment line. Clip seam allowances at the step, turn the pieces to the right side.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, simultaneously stitching the collar. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked bottom line. Clip seam allowances at the curves, turn the pieces and press. Attach the lining to the front facings and facing. Attach the lower edge of the lining to the inner placket. Press seam allowances open. Attach the lower edge of the jacket to the outer placket. Press the seam allowance open.
- Attach the lining to the sleeve seam allowances along the slit. Secure the lower edges of the sleeve and lining at 0.5 cm from the edge. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the step and the short side. Trim seam allowances and turn to the right side. Turn seam allowances inwards and press. Stitch the upper edges of the cuff, inserting the sleeve between them. Topstitch the cuff along the contour, continuing the cuff attachment stitching to the sleeve.
- Topstitch along the contour of the stand, along the contour of the lower placket.
- Topstitch an additional topstitch along the front edge at 0.5 cm from the zipper. Attach snaps on the stand, collar, bottom placket, and cuff.
